THE MAKE-UP ARTIST DIARY

SPRING SUMMER 2011 MAKE UP TRENDS (PART 2)

2011-07-26T14:59:00.000-07:00

GET LIPPY!
As you have probably noticed colourful lips are massive this season. Designers who went for colourful clothes also chose colourful make up to go with it. It could be a clever way of fighting the economy crisis that's giving us so much trouble.. Colours are fun and to wear them cheers you up and can make your day happy and light.

First on the list is Jil Sander who went for a bright fluo matt pink. I was part of Peter Philips team for the fashion show and I promise that that lipstick was full on colour.

To recreate this look leave the skin quite bare but make sure you even it out with a light foundation or tinted moisturizer, once that's done the colour will pop out beautifully. The lipstick is matt, you can find this shade at NARS, LORD & BERRY, YSL.

Fendi went for three killer colours: orange, fuchsia and coral, seriously mat.

Again with Peter P. we did immaculate base but this time we eyelined the bottom rim of the eyes with a soft brown and enhanced the inside with a beige lipliner. Couple of coats of mascara to follow.For the lip colours you can find the same shades at LORD & BERRY they have fab fuchsia and orange, also REVLON has excellent choices. For the coral red you can find amazing variety at DOLCE & GABBANA MAKE UP or BOUROIS.

The look at Gucci was sleeker by giving layers of glassy gloss on top of lipstick.

Any transparent gloss dabbed onto the lipstick will do the job or Elizabeth Arden 8 hours cream.

At Marc by Marc Jacobs the bright orange and coral lipstick is paired up with rosey cheeks which makes the look very fresh and Lolita like.

To replicate it on the lips you can use the Convertible colours by STILA and on the cheeks the Watercolour by DANIEL SANDLER in Cherub is just perfect.

Instead at Givenchi is DRAMA. Deep cherry lips and soft beigy eyes gives the look a certain sofistication.Bleached eyebrows for modern and dewy skin for freshness.

SPRING SUMMER 2011 MAKE UP TRENDS (PART ONE)

2011-06-09T13:43:00.000-07:00

Since lots of you made this request I've decided to write about the make up trends for this fabulous upcoming season, with some special tips on how to achieve the looks. I did some research from the catwalk shows and we can tell there's a bit of a variety on trends, which makes it even more fun!
Clothes wise the key world for spring summer is certainly COLOUR! from blue to pink, green, purple, yellows, a TUTTI FRUTTI colourful season!
Also the top MUAS got their multi colours palettes out and painted eyes and lips à la Renoir.
We still see some "au naturel" and smokey eyes which are always an evergreen, but what I like the most is the silver and gold trend, I love it, it reminds me of the goddesses from the Ancient Greek Literature.
So let's start from this last one : three names: PRADA, ANNA SUI, RODARTE, they all went for the shiny look.
Prada combined the metallic silvery eyes with thick, marked eyebrows and 20's hairstyle to give the girls a sultry-retro yet modern look.

Anna Sui went for a much simpler version of it leaving the gold to speak for itself.

Rodarte chose a sophisticated metallic effect by painting gold lips and tinting fake lashes in gold = GENIUS

How to adapt the silver/gold look to your summer look

As we all know the catwalk looks are inspirational and set the trends but for an everyday/evening look we're not going to reproduce them identically, instead we re going to use the key element and introduce it to our make-up routine. In this case the main element is the gold/silver so I'd start with an immaculate base with a tinted moisturiser or light (texture) foundation, possibly luminous finish.

Apply your silver or gold eyeshadow, you can use any type of eyeshadows: liquid, loose pigments or regular pressed eyeshadow.

Bourjois does a gorgeous silver which you can use dry or wet (wet is FAB), while Daniel Sandler 's eye delight loose eye shadow in pinkgold is just perfect for your goldy nites.

Add lots of mascara and kohl eyeliner on the rim of the eyes.

Eyebrows filled in, bronzer to sculpt your cheekbones for the gold look.

A much colder blusher if you go for the silver eyes, you can add some silvery highlighter for the ultimate chiseled cheekbones.

Transparent super glossy lips and your goddess look is done.

IMAGES FROM http://www.vogue.it/

SPECIAL EFFECTS SURPRISE

2011-05-30T12:59:00.000-07:00

Some of you will think "is she for real?" while reading this ....considering I've been doing this job for ages...but I still want to share my new "discovery"..there might be some like me who are not aware of it.
Right..I was booked for an advertising photoshoot for this product called CICATRENE, some stuff that makes your wounds heal. My job was to make up the characters and to reproduce a little wound, it had to look fresh/ish, on the palm of a hand.
The first thing it crossed my mind was to go and get my special effects wax, which I use from time to time (quite rarely actually) on eyebrows plucking occasions......must say since I moved back to Italy I don't do very often TV or non-fashion advertising work....
Anyways I got my wax, fake blood solid, fake blood liquid, concealer, powder, greasy colours...seemed I was all ready..when the thought of me having nightmares trying to stick the wax on the palm of some-body's hand took over....so I decided to pay a visit to the KRYOLAN shop in Milan and get some advice.
WHAT A BRILLIANT IDEA I HAD!
The lovely girl who runs it recommended to use Tuplast instead. It's much faster and easier to use and you can achieve a great result. I knew Tuplast already from the college days but somehow I thought it was just for herpes, beauty spots etc..
Well as it often happens on shoots I had very little time to do it and in literally 5 mins my wound was done!
I was very impressed with myself and the client was too.
There's only one downside to the story: it's now forbidden to use Tuplast on the face. Anyway you can still use it on the body and they sell an alternative product for the face.

mens grooming

2011-02-04T08:27:00.000-08:00

Do men wear make-up?
yes they do. I remember when I was working at Urban Retreat - Harrods having a long consultation with 3 nice American guys. They all loved the Retexturizing Face Primer by Daniel Sandler and the Super Mineral Make up SPF 15 by Daniel Sandler for a groomed natural, healthy look. They listened carefully to my advice and bought all I recommended.
It's quite popular in the UK too. I've noticed once myriade of cosmetics at a boyfriend's house and later on found myself buying make up for him during sales time at Space NK.
In Italy it's a different story though ..apart from the "paninaro era" when even the macho-est type was wearing foundation and bronzing powder, these days they tend to stick to sunbathing and sunbeds which is so so damaging...but I'm sure that they are getting more and more sensible to the subject.
Anyway this is for what concern their ordinary life, when it comes to a professional level they certainly do.
So when I'm on a photoshoot, or film set, or catwalk show and the models are males I do apply make-up, but in a different way then what I would do for a femal model.
It's very important to discuss the look with the photographer or art director or designer, basically the person in charge. They might ask you to keep it extremely natural and use just moisturizer and primer, like I did for the David Mayer campaign (to come out).
Or they might want the guys to look healthy but not too groomed: for the Z-Zegna show last season under Wendy Rowe's guidance we covered spots, blemishes, dark circles but left some of the natural redness on the cheeks so that the guys looked "real".
Models know that they look better with make-up and sometimes it's them asking you to put more on, like it happend this season at the Missoni mens show, when one of the model asked me to give him cheekbones motivating the request by saying "I've been doing this for years I know what looks good on me".....
My routine for mens' grooming is quite simple, I'm going to write down the steps, so if you feel stuck you have an idea.

1 cleanse and tone to make the skin alive and check if there's need for shaving.
2 if you have time give him little face massage (they love it and won't give you troubles for a while)
3 apply moisturizer: oil free one or light texture.
4 spread a little foundation on your fingers and apply from the center of the face taking it to the side.
5 conceal dark circles and spots or blemishes keeping it very soft i.e. build layers but blend it well so that you won't se the marks.
6 libbalm on the lips (tone down reddish lips with a bit of foundation if needed)
7 powder well
8 check if the body needs any make up or body moisturizer.
Any extra step (bronzin powder, sculpting, shine) depends on the job request.

Here some pics from my portfolio:

Photographer: Roy Schweiger

Photographer: Cristina Capucci

Photographer: Francesco Brigida

Photographer: Diego Diaz

Photographer: Cristina Capucci

Photographer: Doo Hyun Kim

Photographer: Stefan Giftthaler

TRAVELLING FOR WORK

2010-12-29T12:07:00.000-08:00

Some of the beautiful places I've visited this year for work....

TAORMINA

PORTOFINO - @D&G HOUSE

LOS ANGELES

PALERMO

LONDON

ORVIETO

ORTA LAKE

RED LIPS: MOSCHINO FALL 2010

2010-09-15T14:51:00.000-07:00

...and last but not least was the Moschino show.

isn't the cowboy hat look just fab?

Make up wise it's red lips again!

but this time we used a different technique 'cos rather than going for perfection Charlotte aimed for a less defined finish, still using lip liner and lipstick, just a little less slick, rigorously matt.

So ladies out there for the upcoming season stock up with reds, it's gonna be huge!

RED LIPS: GFF FALL 2010

2010-09-13T13:57:00.000-07:00

One sentence sticks on my mind: "It's about perfection". This is how Chanel's creative director Peter Phillips ended his demo at the GFF show.
With it's simplicity the look was elegant, chic and sophisticated. I think it will be very popular next winter.

On Magdalena'skin I used the Chanel foundation Vitalumiere with Chanel Poudre Libre to set it.

Chanel Ombre Essentielle in Beige on the eyes. We didn't create a particular shape, it was only sofly blended up to the eybrows and along to bottom lashes line. NO MASCARA and a little definition on the eyebrows.

The beautiful blusher Joues Contraste in Rose Petale on the apples of the cheeks.

For the lips Rouge Coco in Gabrielle, beautifully lined with Le Crayon Levres in Rouge.

RED LIPS: JUST CAVALLI FALL 2010

2010-09-13T13:24:00.000-07:00

Last February when I worked for Milan fashion week I had the chance to paint those lips red quite a lot, using different thecniques.

The first show was Just Cavalli, keyed by Make Up artist maestro Charlotte Tilbury.

I've never been a lipliner lover....but I must say that to give that perfectly defined red lips effect the lipliner is a must. And it was a total pleasure watching Charlotte's super steady hand lining Iris' lips (above) with Cherry by MAC and then filling them in with Russian Red lipstick by MAC, so popular that got sold out by the end of the week. To finish off and add a bit of glama a splash of dusty glitter all over the lips, in 3 colours. Some models had it red, some peach and some other purple. Result = Gorgeous!!

MAC face chart and products

IRIS

ANABELA

On Anabela I used a tiny bit of foundation to even out the skin tone, little concealer under the eyes, and that was about it. She has naturally shaped eyebrows and anyway the lips were the main feature.

TREND OF THE SEASON: RED LIPS

2010-09-13T12:42:00.000-07:00

The new season is kicking off and flicking through the magazines my attention is caught up by the new fall 2010 campaigns.

Here a selection of my favorites:

Generally when I look at campaigns I pay attention to the whole image but there's no need to say that what I look at the most is hair and make up.
For fall 2010 the big trend is definitely the Red Lips! It has been in the past, but I don't remember seeing it in so many campaigns.

Matt, shiny, bluered, rubyred, orangered, you name it.

The application requires a little effort compared to the beige-nude lips look, 'cos let's face it you need to be quite precise, messy red lips are not an option.

But the good news is that you can now find in the market all the tools that you need and at different price, most of the time affordable.

blog feature

2010-06-30T15:35:00.000-07:00

For you all beauty geeks check out this fantastic blog: http://www.beautymouth.com/

PLUS
there's also a feature about me:
http://www.beautymouth.com/2010/06/mua-of-week-chiara-guizzetti.html

enjoy!

MUST HAVE PRODUCT N2

2010-06-05T14:09:00.000-07:00

Dear Followers,
today I'm going to mention another of my favourite products, something that can't be missing from my beauty kit.
I'm talking about HOMEOPLASMINE OINTMENT 40G.
I discovered it when I was in London and here in Milan every Make up artist that I know owns it, it's something that you can't do without.
Originally created for irritated and sore skins like allergic reactions, bites, mild burns..we also use it on chopped lips and dry skin. It's homoeopathic, antiseptic and not too greasy.
Plus: cheap and you can find it in every pharmacy!

MAKE-UP IS NOT JUST ABOUT THE MAKE-UP

2010-05-12T13:30:00.000-07:00

I know this title can be a bit confusing...but I promise that it will make sense once I've explained.

Make-up artistry is a wonderful big world where as an artist you can be creative in many different ways for many different types of work.

You can do beauty, fashion, special effects, theatre and within each category use many techniques which will bring you to a distinct result.
To make an example I'll publish some pictures of a beauty shoot I did a while ago.
Beauty can be interpreted with natural colours, but also with bright ones. A beauty shoot can involve feathers, lashes, paper, anything really.
What we did on our beauty shoot was to use sequences and apply them on the model's face, without necessarily create a shape, leaving it quite abstract.

I've initially thought that the best way to stick them on the face would be by using eyelash glue but after a while I've realised that vaseline was actually enough and it would have been much faster and easier.

It wasn't difficult in the end I just had to be very patient and meticolous.

Here the final pictures:

MUST HAVE PRODUCT

2010-04-14T15:00:00.000-07:00

It was to my great surprise that while walking on the streets of Milan I've noticed the BIODERMA Crealine H2O make-up remover on a pharmacy window near Brera. It might sound perfectly normal to you..but you must know that even though this is the most popular make-up remover between the make up artists circle up to not long ago it was sold in only one pharmacy in the whole of Milan, precisely in the pretty Farmacia in Corso Porta Ticinese.
Well finally it seems to have reached other places near the city centre. Hurrah!
Shame that the price is still huge compared to France. For the small bottle you pay 13 Euro which is exactly what you pay in France for the double sized one. Never mind..we all know that at the shows you MUST have it or... models will simply keep away from you and colleagues will give you "that" look.
Another good reason for using it is that is very gentle on the skin, great even for the most sensitive, it's not at all oily (it looks and feel like water) and gets rid fast of face and eyes make-up.

It's definitely on my TOP 10 list of products that a MUA should have on the kit.

Products review: Dolce&Gabbana lipsticks

2010-03-31T13:31:00.000-07:00

Even though make up products are the main tools for my job I'm not the type who goes around town to find the latest wonder of make up and skin care. I prefer mix and matching, and I usually test out new products by working with international teams during fashion week.

However, I recently took a job for Dolce&Gabbana cosmetics and I must say I'm well impressed with their lipsticks.
The whole range is good quality, shame they don't have a liquid foundation yet.
The price is not on the cheap side, orientated towards the classic milanese-chic lady.
The lipsticks are just great! They come in 2 types: classic and shine. The texture is amazing, so creamy and moisturising that it gives the lips an incredible soft appearance. But what excites me the most is the colours choice: honestly no sight of boring colours.
So far my favourite are: from the shine collection: fuchsia, precious, fascination, baby darling, magnifica and VIOLET. This last one is just amazing. I wouldn't have picked it by the look as it seems too violet..but once is on, OMG gorgeous. Because it's shiny and soft it gives the colour a modern touch, no pasty violet looks that makes you look100 year old.
From the classic collection: NUDE is just the best nude I've ever tried, not too beige, not too peach, perfect with the smokey look. On the reds: Scarlet, iconic and fire. DELICIOUS is an orange that I cannot describe...(you must have white teeth for this though). On the pinks CORAL is my favourite, followed by pink, shocking and provocative.
This is the link for you to have a look: http://www.dolcegabbanamakeup.com/en/lips/classic-cream-lipstick/to get a taste of it, but to see the real colour and texture I'd recommend to go and try it.
Here where you can find Dolce&Gabbana make-up:http://www.dolcegabbanamakeup.com/en/store-locator/

FANTASY MAKE-UP (inspiration from alice in wonderland)

2010-03-09T11:01:00.000-08:00

Sometimes Make up is not just about beauty and trends...incredible make up designs are used in cinema and theatre to create characthers and myths..to name a few: alice in wonderland, avatar, edward scissorhands, lord of the ring, twilight, startreck..etc

Here some inspiring pictures:

and from the past....

Backstagin'

2010-03-04T11:15:00.000-08:00

Lately I got to do some shows and presentations outside the fashion week season, for labels like:
Coming Soon by Yohji Yamamoto, See by Chloe, MCQ by Alexander McQueen, and Love Moschino.
Most of the time it was quite hardwork and fast but I still managed to take some backstage pictures.
I was the key make-up and Kilian Marin was the key hair.

Love Moschino

MCQ by A. McQueen

A day in paradise

2010-03-04T10:14:00.000-08:00

Sometimes shooting on location can be quite difficult..two months ago we shot on a hill made of sand...
that looked like cement (once it was stuck under our shoes).....funny thing was that I found some seashells
too ( ??) and we were not even at the seaside...
Anyways...it was really cold, we had piles of cemented sand stuck under our feet and the model had to stand half naked on top of the hill...
However..other times it can be lots of fun, and you get to go to beautiful places.
I can't "reveal" yet where these pics are from, until the shoot is published, but you can have a little taste of it:

WARMING UP BEFORE MILAN FASHION WEEK

2010-02-23T16:27:00.000-08:00

I really hope I will have the chance to work again with Peter Phillips this season...
and while waiting I found this video, I love the make up and the inspiration.
Hope you'll like it too.
enjoy!

MEN FASHION WEEK A/W 2010-2011: ZEGNA

2010-02-20T03:59:00.000-08:00

At the E.Zegna show I worked for the first time with Wendy Rowe, a very talented British make up artist.

I found it very easy to get along with her and also that our way of working is very similar, I guess coming from a British make up school explains why.
The models at Zegna's looked once again groomed but not obviously "made up". So the foundation was very light in texture, little powder and concealer.
I was very pleased with my work. At the shows we had four guys with dark skintone and as the first one came to me I didn't hesitate and started doing his make up. I ended up doing them all four and being in charge of them on the line up.
Now you probably think that this is perfectly normal, being a make up artist I should be able to work with every skin tones. But it's not like that really...there are people out there that can do amazing work but when it comes to black skin tones they still feel not sure, maybe because they don't have the right colours (in some countries is still quite hard to find them) or simply because throughout their career they didn't have many chances to work with different skin tones.

I was lucky to experiment from the very beginning of my career...At the time I had just finished my course of photographic make up and arranged with a photographer to do a test. I was very excited about my first photo shoot and I remember going to the MAC shop to buy a couple of gorgeous violet eye shadows and a new foundation with some reflecting particles in it. The look was discussed, the clothes ready, the model was booked, everything was done.
The day of the shoot I'm there, punctually waiting for the team when I see the photographer approaching me with a stunning girl who reminded me of ..Halle Berry!! I wanted to cry first and then run away!! We were all so inexperienced (the photographer was a beginner too) that I didn't think to ask if the model was Caucasian or ethnic and he didn't think about telling me!
I pulled it out quite well I must say. I quickly tried to remember what I had on my kit: I only had 2 colours for dark skin, no yellow powder, good selection of lipsticks, and the violet shadows were bright enough. She had great skin, and luckily the shades that I had were fine, everything went very well in the end. phhhhhhewwww!!
After that episode I overcome the fear of working with different tones and living in London, such a multicultural society was helping too.
On this respect I will write a page of do's and dont's and recommended brands for dark skin tones.

But now let's go back to the Zegna show with AN INTERESTING BACKSTAGE VIDEO
and the one of the show:

Enjoy!!

MEN FASHION WEEK A/W 2010/11: CANALI

2010-02-19T06:13:00.000-08:00

I was the key make up artist for the CANALI show at Milan Fashion Week men, and everything went deliciously smooth!
The backstage area was massive, people were lovely, models not too difficult and the hair key was a dear friend of mine, I couldn't ask for more.

Make up wise it was very simple.Working with the most talented international make up artists has thought me that the less is better.
So with the help of my lovely assistants I prepared the skin with a nice hydrating yet mattifying moisturiser and fixed the beard/stub where it wasn't even.
To follow a very nice and thin layer of face and body by MAC, concealer on imperfections and a tiny bit under the eyes (the guys had to look elegant and groomed but not overdone).
Powder and blotting tissues at the end for touch ups on the line.

The show itself was spectacular! it opened with amazing sand drawing of Kseniya Simonova, from which the models themself were coming out.
Here the videos:

For more pictures and details check out this very interesting blog!

MEN FASHION WEEK A/W 2010/11: MISSONI

2010-02-19T04:56:00.000-08:00

The week started with an unusual show..
At Missoni they liked to be a little different..instead of doing the tradional runaway show they went for a "catwalk on the road". Literally the boyz walked from the Missoni showroom, through the Duomo to the Galleria.
It think it was a great idea, a perfect way to start la settimana della moda.

BEHIND THE SCENES - MALES DO WEAR MAKE-UP.

2010-02-11T06:35:00.000-08:00

I get asked all the time if male models wear make-up...

I guess it's a legitimate question for people who don't work in the industry....
...and the answer is yes, they do, indeed.
Generally for male models we take care of the skin - so we cover blemishes, dark circles, take away the shiness, by using a foundation or a tinted moisturiser or just concealer, or even just powder. Sometimes the look implies the use of eyeliner or eyeshadow, or even crazy aqua colours, it can vary depending on the type of jobs and what the client wants.
I'm going to publish backstage pictures from a photo shoot I did last autumn, where Fabien was wearing face and eye make up.

and pictures of the photoshoot:

TRUCCO

2010-02-09T14:52:00.000-08:00

We never stop learning...
For years I believed that no matter what a lipgloss is a lipgloss i.e. very different from a lipstick, and because of it's texture and it's nature it's bound to come off and doesn't last very long.
So I never believed in super long lasting formulas etc etc..until I tried the TRUCCO's one.
Dear make up lovers that TRUCCO lipgloss is amazing!. I used it on a shoot on location where the model where standing on the top of a hill and I couldn't reach her too often...each time I had a chance I was running to her to retouch her lips..to find out that I didn't need to, the gloss was still there, immaculate, on his deepest cherry colour. And there's a bonus: it smells delicious!
Now...the bad news is that I don't know where I can find this brand in Italy. . TRUCCO is the make up line of SEBASTIAN HAIR CARE. I've managed to get that gloss a while ago from a collegue in the UK..but I've heard that sadly the brand has been disontinued.
I will definitely investigate to find out if it's true, in the meantime I'll give you a couple of links wher you can purchase them:
http://www.ballbeauty.com/trucco_divinyls_lip_gloss.htm
http://www.haircareusa.com/sabastian_trucco_index.htm
and last but not least the good old ebay
http://health-beauty.shop.ebay.com/Sebastian-Trucco-/159852/i.html

Enjoy!!!!
xxx

VERSUS FOR A.WINTOUR AND SUZY MENKES

2010-01-25T11:29:00.000-08:00

The last day of two amazing weeks of fashion was at the Versace Theatre, where we prepared the models for 2 private super exclusive presentations: one for A. Wintour and later in the evening for Suzy Menkez.

It was very excting to meet Kristopher Kane and his siter Tammy who revamped the Versus line with a new fresh and young collection.

Here the picture of Donatella and Kristopher with the girls.

......and the article that Suzy Menkes wrote for the NY Times:

"By SUZY MENKES

Published: September 27, 2009

MILAN — “It is emotional for me,” said Donatella Versace as she viewed the plinths displaying scarlet dresses snapped with multi-colored safety pins and inserts of metal mesh — all created in tandem with the British designer Christopher Kane.

For Ms. Versace, the reincarnation of her personal Versus line, revealed Sunday, was a sweet memory of the early 1990s when her brother, Gianni, encouraged her creativity.

And the fact that Mr. Kane works with his sister, Tammy, was another piquant link between past and present.

“He’s a volcano of ideas,” Ms. Versace said. “He knows how to dress a woman’s body and he looks at young people and the young world, and that’s the future.”

Mr. Kane, 27, recalled how he was mesmerized as a pre-teen by the Versus boutique in his native Glasgow and how he went through the “labyrinth” of archives to find fresh inspiration for this collection.

The Versus collaboration seemed a perfect fit — literally in the cute, full-skirted dresses and figuratively in the match with Gianni Versace’s heritage. Using cut-out Neoprene lace to decorate finely pleated skirts and hanging his dresses on form-fitting bustiers, the Kane/Versus presentation looked right.

As for those strategic Versace safety pins that held together Elizabeth Hurley’s dress — and launched her career — Mr. Kane turned them into multi-colored embellishment for dresses and shoes. His own addition was cut-out sleeves hanging by straps. Yet the collection was never come-on or super sexy — rather a sleek and chic amalgam of Versus vintage and new. "

AQUILANO RIMONDI S/S 2010

2010-01-10T04:08:00.000-08:00

For the Aquilano Rimondi report I'll start straight away from the pictures:

images from dazeddigital.com

I loved every single bit about this show! from the sparkling pieces on the clothes, the colours, hair, make up, models, team, energy, absolutely everything.

Peter Phillips, key Make up Artist for Aquilano Rimondi created a look that was sexy, modern, rockchick-esque.

I'm not going to spend much time talking about the base, we used Vitalumiere fluid by Chanel, for more details and advice you can check the GianFranco Ferre' page of my blog.

The eyes were the focus :to start with we applied a liquid texture eyeshadow which has a powdery finish once is dry. It mind sound weird at first, but I promise that it leaves a gorgeous effect. You get an intense colour result with just one layer with the benefit that it won't crease, like most of liquid and cream based shadows do.

You can find find more info and a video on how to apply it here, the name of the product is Ombre d'Eau (shade: Delta).

Like on the video we applied the product on the eyelid and blended the excess up on the crease (with a flat eyeshadow brush).

Afterward with a soft pony tail brush we added, again on the crease of the eyes, a loose sparkling, bronzy colour powder to give more definition.

Black khol on the rim of the eyes, Ombre d'Eua again on the bottom of the lid, and thick mascara for the ultimate rockchick look.

The same loose powder that we used on the eyes was once again utilized on the high part of the cheekbones, continuing along the temples (see the first pic above)

The eyebrows were filled in just when needed, and on the lips a touch of natural colour.

I think it looked cool and sexy, it's easy to recreate and can be suitable for everybody for a nite out look at the disco + party + concert and more..

GIANFRANCO FERRE' AND JIL SANDER S/S 2010

2010-01-06T14:31:00.000-08:00

My day started quite early in the morning with the call time for Gianfranco Ferre' show, chief MUA Peter Phillips.
As usual I bump into familiar faces, apart from the MUA, I recognize all the hairdressers part of Luigi Murenu's team..chit chat chit chat chit chat!
Then everybody arrives and it's demo time.
The look was very simple but at the end, with the hair look completed and the clothes on, the whole image became very strong.

Being Peter the artistic director for Chanel make up, lots of make up items on the tables was labelled double c.

The Chanel base is slightly more covering compared to what I normally use..but easy to blend and also luminous, making the skin looking dewy and fresh. For a more transparent effect you can mix it with a moistorizing lotion.
If you're stuck with the application technique, check out this video on the Chanel website that can be of help

Powder on top for the ultimate matt look, (except on the cheekbones), groomed eyebrows and a lovely warm natural brownish lipstick.
On the eyes just a touch of beige eyeliner on the rim of the eyes.
As anticipated we left the cheekbones without powder and that was because we applied only at the very end (on the line) a touch of transparent lipgloss, which will look gorgeous under the lights.

here the images, from elle.com

As soon as we finished GFF we jumped on the bus to go the next location: the Jil Sander show.
The make up look was very similar to the previous show, very minimal with no colour on the lips, just natural. The hair style was different here, so the general look was less polished, more girl next door type.
So we started straight away and finish way before the runaway time...It's nice for a change working without time pressure!

images from style.com

MILAN FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 - VDP

2010-01-04T11:49:00.000-08:00

September has definitely been an exciting month, not only I did 5 shows in London, I was also booked to assist amazing artists for the Milan fashion week.
So it started with the presentation for VDP (Via delle Perle) working with italian MUA Miriam Langelotti, known for her "natural look". Miriam likes to use very light foundations to make the skin looking natural and glowy.
These days the way of doing make-up has changed compared to the 90's, where the foundation was applied quite thick to give strong coverage. Not only you couldn't see blemishes anymore, the general effect was porcelain skin-like. It was also very matt, shine was a big no-no.
Nowdays, especially for fashion, the trend is to see the skin coming through, freckles are allowed, the less product you put, the better. The skin looks younger and fresher, there is no need to cover it comnpletely, you can hide only what you don't want to be seen.
A touch of glow/shine on the cheekbones is healthy and chic (mind you only a touch, if the skin is oily naturally it's best to use a specific foundation for only skins) for the best non-make up effect.

Here the video taken on the day.

VDP VIDEO. click on VIDEO EVENTS

and some images taken from styleandfashion.blogosfere.it

LFW DAY 5 - ROKSANDA LLINCIC S/S 2010

2010-01-03T07:53:00.000-08:00

The Make up look for Roksanda Llincic show was one of my favourite: warm colours and soft blending was the formula.
Lucia Pica the head MUA used a selection of 4 different eyeshadow on the tones of terracotta, beige, browns and goldy yellows, blended in softly for a velvet-like effect. The secret for achiving this softness is to keep blending with a big soft eyeshadow brush or a pony tail brush. It's only by blending that you get rid of those harsh lines that make the make up looking heavy and dragqueeny.
Warm bronzing powder under the cheekbones and on the temples.
Concealer on the eyebrows: this way you don't "erase" the eybrows completely but you make them looking less obvious.
No colour on the lips and lots of powder to create a perfect matt finish.

Images from elle.com

PAUL SMITH S/S 2010- LFW DAY 4

2010-01-01T15:44:00.000-08:00

The Paul Smith show was full of colours and fun!
The clothes had an ethnic influence, splashed with pastel colours, jungle-esque mood.

The hair look consisted in a very tight chignon with a "madeofplaits- flower shape-crown" at the top.

The make up look was simple yet effective.
Petros Petrohilos was the chief MUA; with his transparent base made the girls skin looking fresh and natural. A touch of NARS Multiple stick in St Barts under the cheek bones and on the socket of the eyes and....FULL ON COLOUR on the lips. Matt orange, purple, blue and green were the colours. No lipstick but lip and eye liners instead, for a strong impact.
Since we used pencils we applied lots of vaseline befere hand, to avoid the lips to look dry and cracky. To achieve a very intense colour we applied several layers, this way you make the look strong, being the lips the only feature. A washed effect wouldn't have been the same. It's details like this that make the difference when you design a make up look.

pictures from dazeddigital.com

Everything went smooth...apart from a model having a crisis followed by big time tears..right after I finished doing her make-up....this is the crazy fashion world for you!!

LFW S/S 2010 DAY 3 - JULIEN MACDONALD

2009-12-26T09:53:00.000-08:00

I was excited at the idea of being part of the team for the Julien Macdonald show, first of all because he's one of the most established british desgner, I like his collections and and third...Charlotte Tillbury was the key MUA..I like her style, I get inspired..
I'm gonna show the pictures straight away:

pictures from elle.com

What I like about this look is the fact that it's fairly natural yet sexy.

It's not about colours on the eyes or on the lips, it's about playing with the shimmers, highlighting and shading and making the skin loooking glowy and healthy.

To start with we used MyFace base, a lightweight foundation part of Charlotte's new make-up range Myface Cosmetics.

We then used the blusher in Medium Dark under the cheekbones and a touch on the apple of the cheeks for a sunkissed effect.

On the eyes: with a cream texture colour in warmish brown we defined the socket of the eyes and the bottom of teh eyelid, gently, with a soft stroke, well blended, no harsh lines.
Then with a loose white shimmery powder we filled in the eyelids. With the same powder we dotted the inside corner of the eyes, applied along the bridge on the nose, the bow of the lips, little touch on lips too and finally on the cheekbones.
The only strong (ish) part of the make up consisted on filling in the eyebrows making them quite thick, always soft and natural though, Brooke Shields' style.

watch the video (from elle.com)

As you can see the shimmer has created an amazing effect under the lighting, the girls were catwalking in a beautiful place reminding us of an italian piazza, looking modern, sexy and gorgeous.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 DAY 2 - OSMAN YOUSEFADA

2009-12-26T07:27:00.000-08:00

It's the second day of LFW and it was meant to be a day off...when at the last minute I 'm asked to assist Lisa Eldridge for the Osman Yousefada show!! great, couldn't ask for more. I've never worked with Lisa before but i heard amazing things about her.
And all I've heard was true...not only she's an amzing artist but sh'e s also a kind, patient and beautiful!
In the backstage area was real crazy! It was the first year at the Somerset House, the place was beautiful...packed with fashionistas, photographers and press...unfortunately they gave us the wrong call time..well the actual call time was right but they let us in with an hour delay...which meant less time to do everything...
Lisa kept working very calm and focused, giving us a good vibe and positive energy.
In the end we did all the girls, they looked amazing and the show was a success!
The make-up look had a late 80's early 90's reference, which matched with a long sleek pony tail would just give you the impression of having a deja vu...of Linda and Naomi working the catwalk!

Image from: cltreanor.blogspot.com

HOW WE ACHIEVED THE LOOK

As mentioned the look was 80's/90's so quite full on.

The base had a matte finish, no shimmer or shine. The coverage was normal, not see through or light.

Watching Lisa doing the eyes was a pleasure..she literally did it in 2 minutes...I've been doing this job for quite a while but I've never seen anybody so fast and precise all in once!

We used black eyeshadow with black khol for the inside of the eyes and a touch of irridescent blue/ lilac eyeshadow to apply at the end, on top of the eyelid. The shape was a little elongated, sharp, cat-eye like, with full colour. Eyeshadow on the bottom of the yelid too, for a smokey feel.

The eyebrow were filled in, following the natural shape.

No blusher on the cheeks, just contouring under the cheekbones.

On the lips we used a non coloured lip base to create a "deleted" effect.

Images from elle.com

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010- SASS AND BIDE

2009-10-18T06:05:00.000-07:00

London is my favourite town; it has been “home” for several years, so going back always fills me with happiness. Even better if the reason for visiting is London Fashion Week!

My first show was Sass and Bide, assisting chief MUA Petros Petrohilos, using REVLON make-up.

Once arrived I’m very glad to notice familiar faces, colleagues who I haven’t seen for ages….
Yuko Fredriksson in particular…we met at a fashion show years before assisting Petros… where we did lots of body make up….
Ella Bradley is another great MUA who I met on a charity show for TRAID..
That time I ended up doing her make up, due to a very last minute shortage of models....funny!

Once everybody‘s arrived it’s time for the demo.
The look was very natural with focus on the eyes, a subtle reference to the 60’s, extremely subtle.

-Working with different MUA is as interesting as you can learn various techniques and other ways of doing make up. This season has been particularly interesting for me observing the way of doing the base, at the end of it I had the whole vision, I absorbed what I’ve learned and I can now customise it to my style. That’s why it’s great working for events like fashion week, you have the opportunity to work with amazing artists -

We started with a light, almost transparent base; where you would cover the little blemishes but leave the skin coming through, think of a tinted moisturiser-like cover.
Thin layer of powder just on the T zone.
On the eyes we used a goldy brown, slightly shimmery stick on the socket and a pale highlighter on the eyelid, both very soft. The colour on the crease applied with the brush, started from the side of the nose to give the eyes definition, and the highlighter on the lids to add luminosity.
Inside the rim of the eyes we applied Revlon Luxurious Colour Khol Eyeliner in white, only from half way through till the end. The same eyeliner was used to enhance the inside corner of the eyes, by drawing a horizontal V along the eye shape itself and then blending it with a brush.
The mascara was the gorgeous Doubletwist, the latest from Revlon, applied endlessly. Layers and layers of mascara to make the lashes spidery and thick.
Under the cheekbones a hint of the same brown colour that we used on the eyes for a little definition and on the lips Nude Attitude a very nice beigy-pink soft textured lipstick by Revlon.

A BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 3

2009-09-09T01:04:00.000-07:00

More pictures from my archive, just to keep you warm before the new season's shows.
These ones are from the Atelier 1 show AW08-09, I was the key MUA

The collection was beautiful, earthy colours like olive green, brown, and grey were predominant with a touch of shiny silver from time to time, sparkling like a lake in the middle of a forest.
At the make up test the designer was looking for something bright, like a splash of colour. Originally I thought about some vivid colours on the eyes but then we decided that it didn't matter where it was placed, it had to be there somewhere, like a colorful fashion accessory.

A clean delicate and beautiful base was a must, to enhance the colours
I was going to put afterward. I have used Perfect Canvas, a very nice smooth liquid base with a hint of luminosity, Hide It concealer and Invisible Blotting Powder, all by Daniel Sandler Cosmetics

On the eye sockets and at the bottom of the eyelids a soft stroke of Taupe (blusher) by MAC . Taupe again under the cheeckbones for a bit of definition.
Eyebrows filled in only the necessary, and fake lashes (medium, not thick ones).

On the lips just a touch of concealer applied with fingertips (tons of lipbalm required to prevent them from looking dry).

Then we applied the bright colours:for the eyes (green and blue) we used a selection of eyeshadows from different brands, while for cheeks and lips (pink, orange, yellow and lilac) we used water based colours, the ones you use for facepainting ( GRIMAS are my favorite.

To add some "catching the light" effect we applied at the very end some vaseline on eyelids and cheeckbones, et voila'! the look is done.

It was a great experience, being in charge was a big responsability but also very rewarding. I couldn't have done it without the help of my marvellous "affectionados" from the Daniel Sandler team: Kathrine O'Neill, Heather White and Trevor Killean(http://www.danielsandler.com/team)

BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 2

2009-08-31T11:08:00.000-07:00

Working with Daniel Sandler has thought me a lot.
Not only he's a very talented make up artist, Daniel is also a beautiful genuine person and a very special friend.

To follow some of the shows I did with Daniel, first assistant on his team.

GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH AW08

GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH SS08

A BLAST FROM THE PAST!

2009-08-09T11:46:00.000-07:00

While tidying up my laptop I found pictures that brought me back to nice old memories and though about uploading them and share them, they can be useful for ideas or reference.

This is one of the first “proper” show that I did with Daniel Sandler, in London, for Pucci.
I remember being very nervous…but everything went smooth, Daniel was soo lovely.

These ones are from the Belle and Bunty show during London Fashion Week S/S06, with Daniel Sandler, sponsored by Bourjois cosmetics and Shavata

September 2006 - Milan- my first show in my own country. I was first assistant in Daniel Sandler's team for the Jenny Pachkam show.

MISSONI MENS SHOW S/S 2010

2009-07-23T05:49:00.000-07:00

The Missoni collection for next year's spring summer is chic and comfortable.
The Missoni man is a traveller, sexy and effortless.
Miriam Lancellotti (head make up for the show)decided to recreate the tanned look by using Mineralize Skin finish powder by Mac. In that way we achieved a "tanned-from-travelling" look i.e. even but not too embellished, a bit rough if anything. The result was great, the boyz looked healthy without showing they were wearing make up.

bits and bobs

2009-07-15T09:08:00.000-07:00

HISTORY OF MAKE UP: DATES TO REMEMBER

While flicking through an old copy of British Vogue I found a very interesting article about the basic tools for our beauty routine: who and when they were invented:

Face Cream: Guerlain’s Secret de Bonne Femme was launched in 1904.
Bronzing Powder: Guerlain introduces Terracotta in the 1900’s
Mascara: in 1914 Max Factor introduces the first form of mascara for films – a wax to be heated and applied to the lashes. By 1916 this mascara is available to the public.
Foundation: Max Factor develops flexible greasepaint for films in 1914
Hair Dye: Eugene Schueller calls his synthetic hair colour Aureole in 1907 and sets up a company called L’Oreal.
Nail Polish: Cutex commercialises nail polish in 1917.
The Perm: in 1906 Charles Nestle invents his permanent-wave machine
False Lashes: Max Factor creates a set out of human hair in 1919, but doesn’t sell false eyelashes commercially until 1959.
Eyelash curlers: Kurlash is invented in 1923.
Perfumed face powder: Caron introduces Peau Fine in 1920
Hand Held hairdryer: invented in 1969. Before this hood hairdryers were the only option available.
Hair Straighteners: Babybliss was the first company to introduce straightening irons for pro use in 1980, but did not sell them to the public until 1987.

WHAT WE USED TO DO…

Egg White: was painted on skin nightly for it’s tightening effect during the 20’s.
Liquid Stockings: during World War II a tan-coloured cream was painted over legs and a browline drawn up the backs to mimic stockings.
Boot Polish: was used in World War II instead of mascara due to make-up shortages.
Milk of Magnesia: was used to lighten skin to the ivory tone that was in vogue in 1916.
Flame Soot: was mixed with baby oil to create smoky eyes in the 20’s and 30’s before eyeshadow was invented.
A rabbit’s foot: was used as a rouge applicator in the early 20th century.
Hair Ironing: in the 60’s women draped their hair over an ironing board and covered it with a paper bag or towel before ironing it straight.
Rose Petal Blush: rose petals were steeped in red wine for weeks and used as substitute for rouge during World war II.

Amazing eh?!
Full articles from British Vogue December 2006.

CHANEL CRUISE SHOW IN VENICE

2009-05-29T02:58:00.000-07:00

It's friday morning..I'm lost in the courtyard of the Universita' Politecnico di Milano trying to find a studio room that nobody seems to know...when my agent calls...
Next week I'm going to Venice to do the Chanel cruise show!
how exciting!

This is how it went..

14th of May Central Station of Milan 8am:
bunch of people with big luggage looking at the time screen waiting for the platform number to come out, destination: Venice.
On the train we were chatting and catching up, we’re from the same agency but haven’t seen each other from fashion week, so there’s a lot to say.
Arrived in Venice they pick us up and take us to the hotel…This time though it’s not a taxi but a boat, I’m already excited! Even though I’ve been in Venice few times already I never get tired or bored of it, same magical feeling, same sensation of being in a past era.
The hotel is amazing, and its’ all booked for Chanel staff and guests especially for the show. This is called class.
Apparently Coco Chanel spent a holiday at Lido di Venezia, the whole collection is dedicated to it. Even the backstage passes had a beautiful vintage drawing on it (I’m using mine as a pendant..)

Just about enough time for the check-in and in half an hour it's the call time, on the 3rd floor.
While we wait Tatiana Patziz is passing by, my eyes and mouth are about to get wide open but I keep it cool, like I see top models from the 90’s every day…
We go to the big balcony and the view is WOW, I will never forget the colour of the see that day, the breeze, the nervousness mixed with excitement..
The make up room is massive. Everything is tidy, perfectly organised. Big lightened mirrors, white sheets on the table. Every table has a selection (huge one) of Chanel make up on it and the name of the artist who will sit there. (This is like it should be, you go at some shows and you don’t even have a centimetre of space to work..)
Then Peter Philip arrives, and send us to lunch! It’s going to be a long day and we need to be fed.
The buffet is downstairs, by the sea… paradiselike. I’m not particularly hungry, I’m always like that before an important job, must be stress, but I know that later on I will regret it so I force myself.
Back to work we start following Peter’s demo, here the description of the make up look:
-The inspiration comes from the 20's, the slapper look, very heavy eyes and pale skin.
For the base we used PRO LUMIERE liquid foundation for a light dewy skin. We didn’t use foundation or concealer on the eye lids.
On the eyes EYE GLOSS from LUMINOUS CREAM QUADRA EYESHADOW a beautiful palette of creamy colours: red, black, gold and pearl.
On each table there was a list with the names of the models, and near each name there was the instruction for which coluor use between the black and red cream shadows.
The colour was smudged all along the eyelid and blended up to the brow bone on a round shape.
Heavy khol black liner on the rim of the eyes, also smudged outside the lashline which goes to be blended with the cream colour applied underneath as well.
Lashes were curled but not too much to prevent them from hitting the back of the eye area and ruin the make up (we all know cream eyeshadow smudges very easily) coated with WATERPROOF IRRESISTABLE MASCARA in black.
Brows filled in but very lightly, no specific shape.
No contour, only blusher FRESQUE 58 on the apples of the cheeks.
Lip balm on the lips, the lipstick will be applied later on, on the line.
All the make up we used was CHANEL only -

The room quickly fills in with models, I see Myf who I met at Pucci last season and she sees me and come straight away to my table. Myf is very easy going, I like that, I like working with models like her, especially at the shows.

Everything goes very smooth, no “delirio” situations, in a couple of hours they get make up, nails and hair done and they look FAB!.

Downstairs, on the line is actually a DELIRIO. All the dressers screaming names, hundred of people passing by, photographers.., flashes, the usual..then the music starts and the girls catwalk on the beach. It was marvellous. I can’t describe it any longer, this was the job that makes you think that all the sacrifices are worth it, I feel very lucky to have had such an opportunity.

This is the video:

And some pictures:

MADRID HAIR SHOW FOR REDKEN

2009-05-25T02:58:00.000-07:00

TAKTIK hair has become one of my regular clients. Working for them is great cos' you get to travel, staying in beautiful hotels but most important their shows are always different and creative and I get the chance to experiment too.
We had as usual cut and colour on stage, 2 models for the "FORME" (shapes) session, and 4 models for the fantasy theme "THE MONGOLIANS".
We worked under pressure, we only had 5 hours to do everyhting..in a smallish backstage where the light wasn't ideal..but we made it, as usual it was a big success.

Here some pictures:

THE MONGOLIANS

MAKE UP TRIAL FOR "THE MONGOLIANS" LOOK

INSPIRATION

THE "FORME"

FACE CHART FOR THE "FORME" MAKE UP

MAKE UP TRIAL

THE HOTEL

PS!! I HAD 5 GIRLS HELPING ME OUT, THEY WERE GREAT. IF YOU RE IN SPAIN AND NEED MAKE UP ARTISTS I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM: LAURA GOMEZ ALONSO, TATIANA SOLER, VIRGINIA MARTIN, LAURA GONZALEZ ORTIZ, CARLA BERCIAL.
(for their details send me an e-mail).

more pictures to come!!

TEST SHOOT BACKSTAGE

2009-05-24T13:06:00.000-07:00

A test shoot is an opportunity for the team of photographer, stylist, model, make up and hair to produce pictures to put on their portfolios, websites, etc..
It's is generally not paid (in London and Milan from my experience, I've heard that in NY is different..) but a great chance to work with new people, to experiment and being creative.
In London you have this very good website called WHOISTESTING.COM where you only have to put an example of your work and people can contact you to collaborate.

Here some pictures from the backstage of a test shoot I did recently:

STARZ

DETAILS

LOVELY MODEL POSING FOR BACKSTAGE SHOT

SHOOTING

THE FINAL PICTURES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALICE ROSATI
STYLING BY IRENE DE SANTIS
MAKE UP AND HAIR BY CHIARA GUIZZETTI

PRINGLE and MILA SCHON AW 09/10

2009-04-16T07:04:00.000-07:00

Like we've seen at Pucci, the look for Pringle of Scotland was also "naturel"
David Jones, (Pat McGrath's main assistant) did the demo:
beautiful dewy skin thanks to "face and body" by Mac, a little sculpting under the cheekbones and a touch of vaseline on the lips. Only afterward David decided to add blusher and brown mascara, but it was still very very minimal.

It was again a very relaxed atmosphere..no dramas...only.. to add a lil' glama Miss Pixie Geldof turned up for le maquillage!

The Mila Schon show was a different story...Proper "delirio" on the backstage, like what you always imagined..from the screaming divas to the hours of delay..yelling here and there...the last minute models turning up with crazy big hair and fucsia eyes needing to be ready in 10 minutes for a a nude make up look and a chignon.
This is it, this is fashion week for you! ...(I might be more of a relaxed and no dramas show type..if I can chose..)
Anyways..the make up team was leaded by Cristine Dupuys, sponsored by Shu Uemura make up.
The look was "chic meets interesting":
a nice and transparent base with a dust of powder here and there. Eyes defined on the socket and bottom lashes line with a beigy brown eyeshadow. Soft mascara.
The eyebrows made the difference: with a brow brush deeped in thick concealer we pushed them upward, to give them the effect of disappearing. We draw the "new ones" with a light brown pencil: thin and straight with a minimal curving at the end.
Sculpted cheekbones, natural pink lips et voila' the look is done!

PUCCI AW 09/10

2009-03-15T06:07:00.000-07:00

Fashion week has kicked in, lots of good energy around Milano.
My call time was 9:15 meeting the international MAC team for the PUCCI show, key make up artist LISA BUTLER, yippi! (I always wanted working with her).
The backstage was crowded with hairdressers and maquilleurs, brushes, hairdryers, hair extensions, crazy! It was very nice to find familiar faces: people I met during the London days, people met recently in Milan, people coming from America, Australia, Malasia met in the past fashion seasons, it was a great feeling!
Then Lisa arrives on her super high stilettos and it's time to play.
Lisa's assistants start distributing samples of make up that we re going to use, then it's demo time and we're all following every single details.
The make-up up look was meant to be very plain, since the clothes were quite full on they wanted the girls to look simple, almost boyish, yet fresh.
We applied first Strobe cream by Mac wich has a nice louminous, slightly shimmery finish and on top a thick-ish foundation. The trick was to apply the foundation gradually, layer on top of layer, tapping with the brush. In this way you get an even base, medium coverage without looking too heavy or mask-like.To set the foundation we used MAC mineral powder, great to seal the base. Very interesting way of doing the eyebrows: we kept the colour light or brown but not dark. We filled them in with a brush but instead of being a typical eyebrow brush we used a regular eyeshadow brush to achieve a soft stroke with little definition.
On the eyes only Strobe, brown mascara and a touch of brown eyeliner on the rim of the eyes. Strobe on the lips too.

MILAN FASHION WEEK READY TO WEAR AW 09/10

2009-03-12T05:56:00.000-07:00

The September shows seem finished yesterday..I can still feel the vibe..and it's already happening again..it's February, it's Milan fashion week.
The worries concerning the crisis affecting the fashion industry generated terrible forecasts and a frightened mood between us "the backstagers" which reminded me of the panic on a child 's face when the parents break the news that the trip to the funfair is cancelled...
But fear not..the show must go on...the telephone starts ringing and everybody is running around Milan, suitecasing all over the place.
I've started my fashion journey with Versace, not the actual show..."only" a presentation, strictly Private, for Mrs A.Wintour!!!
I met up before the call time for a cappuccino with lovely Kristen, who I got to know one and a half years ago, on exactly the same circumstance. We then go to one of the Versace's villas...and meet the rest of the hair and make-up team. The vibe was unusually relaxed, no drama, everybody was lovely! we even had time to take a long lunch break.
The look we created was very natural and clean: Mac face and body for the skin, for a very transparent effect. On the eyes brown eyeliner pencil slightly smudged in the corner and brown mascara.A touch of Taupe (blusher) by Mac on the socket. Taupe again under the cheecks to contour and a touch of 8 hour cream on the lips.
Everything went pretty smooth...the presentation was a success and we were going to be rebooked. fab!

BUSINESS CARDS

2009-02-24T12:07:00.000-08:00

Dear friends I want to share with you a precious tip, I'm going to give you the link of the best+cheap business cards maker ever.
There you go: MOO is "the" company
They're super fast, good quality cards, at a very cheap price.
Bring it on!

MILAN FASHION WEEK MEN AW 2009-10

2009-01-29T11:16:00.000-08:00

This Januray started out pretty well. One of the job (glamorous jobs actually) that I did was the men show for Belstaff in Milan. The make up was very minimal and simple(you know men don't really wear much of it, unless is some very creative project..) the real excitement consisted in being part of PAT MCGRATH team!!
Some pictures from the show to follow.

TRUCCO E PARRUCCO

2009-01-25T15:34:00.000-08:00

Everyday is a new adventure!
Life of a Make up Artist in Milan is quite full on: most of the clients expect you to do both hair and make-up..and during credit crunch times like this you can't really afford to say no..So bring your hairstyling skills back and rock!

Here some backstage images from a couple of shoots where I did both trucco e parrucco.

GARIGLIO

Sabina

Sandro

INTIMO (UNDERWEAR)

Make up face charts

2009-01-13T15:11:00.000-08:00

As a Make up Artist it is very important to be constantly updated with the trends, the music scene, fashion scene, different cultures. So part of the job is to buy or consult magazines, books, researching the internet,going to the library.
In London my favorite book shop is RD FRANKS ,you can find everything related to fashion and design!

Another interesting book shop is MAGMA

There are also lots of other book shops along Charing Cross Road, new ones and old ones where you can find real bargains.

Drawing sketches is another Make up Artist duty. It just helps to have an idea of the make up that you want to recreate. If you plan it on paper before, on the day of the job is going to be much easier. It also helps other members of the team (photographer, stylist, etc) to fully understand your idea, sometimes describing the image you have in mind can be hard and can generate misunderstanding.

At MAC cosmetics they have face charts on special paper (you can use eyeshadows on it)which are great for this purpose.

Here some examples of sketches I did for the Moroccan look that I designed for Taktik hair show.

TRIP TO SPAIN- CORDOVA AND PUENTE GENIL

2008-12-10T13:52:00.000-08:00

14th of November 08 - Linate Airport, here I am again, ready for a new adventure.
This time I'm flying to London Gatwick to meet the TAKTIK HAIR
team and then we'll fly all together to Malaga and from there to Puente Genil, where the show is taking place.
We had such an amazing time, Spanish people are very nice and warm. The weather was amazing and the food I'm not even starting... but most important thing:
THE SHOW! which was another big success! The Spanish crowd was totally impressed with the looks and the colours that the Londoners brought to their country.We brought new ideas with the catwalk, knowledge with the seminar, and last but not least LOTS OF FUN!

Here some pictures from the show and some from our little trip in Cordoba during our half day off.

CORDOVA

MOI

ERNESTO AND THE MODEL

ME AND THE BOYZ

TAKTIK TEAM (HAVING FUN)

LISAP FASHION PARTY

2008-11-08T13:27:00.000-08:00

For the launching of LISAP SPLASHER a new range made of six multifunctional colours, LISAP organized a special event called SPLASHER FASHION PARTY near Riccione in Italy.
One of the hairdressers team partecipating was TAKTIK HAIR,
lead by my dear friend Ernesto Montenovo.
The show was a big success, everybody was amazed by the creativity with the presentations and the "moroccan theme". The cut and colours collections was also very popular, which brought to the audience new ideas and inspiration.

Here all the images from the backstage:

THE MOROCCAN COLLECTION

The girls..

...the dancers

...and the bongo players

THE TWO PRESENTATIONS

THE CUT AND COLOUR COLLECTION

THE TRIALS THE DAY BEFORE THE SHOW..

THE TEAM

"D" LEADER ERNESTO MONTENOVO

THE HANDSOME EDUCATORS DARIO AND JOHAN

GREEK GODDESS ART DIRECTOR PENNY

NICOLA KING OF COLOURISTS WITH HIS NICOLA T SHIRT

MYSELF, MAKE-UP ARTIST QUEEN

OUR FABOLOUS STYLIST GRETCHEN OWEN

ROZA FASHION SHOW

2008-11-06T14:54:00.000-08:00

One of the amazing "side effects" of my job is the fact that it allows me to travel all the time, meeting new people, seeing new places..(even though sometimes you only end up seeing new hotels)
So after finishing fashion week in Milan I'm alreday booked in London for another fashion show. This time though I'm the lead make up artist and I will run it.
Fun Fun Fun!!
It's for a russian couture label called ROZA, fabolous!
After meeting the designer we discussed the look she wanted for the make up. The collection had an inspiration from the 30's, the dresses were beautiful and elegant with a modern twist. So the girls on the catwalk needed to be as beautiful
and modern with a retro feel at the same time.
So..I went for the eyebrows. The skin was flawless, dewy, young with a touch of rose blusher on the cheeks and highlighter on the cheekbones. The eyes were kept quite natural, just a hint of smokey look and a couple of individual lashes in the corner. The eyebrow were the focus, still quite natural but well marked and the shape a la 30's was the key. On the lips a stain of raspberry lipstick to finish the look.
To complement the look the hair was tied on the back and on the front gorgeous soft waves were framing the face.

Here some pictures from the backstage:

MAKE UP TEAM:
LEADER: CHIARA GUIZZETTI
ASSISTANTS:
KATHRINE O'NEILL
HEATHER WHITE
KEN NAKANO
EMILY GOMEZ

HAIR TEAM:
AVEDA TEAM LEADED BY MICHAEL PRINOTH

MILAN FASHION WEEK part 2

2008-10-06T05:10:00.000-07:00

LA PERLA

For LA PERLA show during Milan fashion week I had the pleasure to do the make up for the fabolous Bianca Balti.

Dotti, the lead make up artist created a beautiful semi natural look. The skin was gorgeous, looking expensive emphasised with the MADINA highlighter on the temples and the highest part of the cheekbones. The eyes were soft smoky: we used a cream metallic charcoal color , coffee pencil by MAC
on the rim of the eyes. Sculptured cheekbones and pale lips.

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO OF THE INTERVIEW IN THE BACKSTAGE,

BLUMARINE

When I arrived to the Velodromo Vigorelli where the Blumarine show was going to take place, they were setting up the room.I was immediately attracted by the sight of a beautiful arch made of yellow roses that was framing the entrance of the catwalk. I knew then that it was going to be an amazing day.

The make up look that lead make up artist Charlotte Tilbury created was angelic, dewy, luscious.

The base was light coverage, dewy, healthy with a touch of cream blusher.

The eyes were defined with brown cream eyeshadow on the socket of the eyes and on the bottom eyelid, very soft. Shimmery pigment on the inner corner and a touch on the eyelid, to open up the eyes.

On the lips rose cream blush, tapped with fingers to give a stain effect, covered with a layer of clear gloss.

Shimmery pigment on the cheekbones and on the lips bow.

Result = bellissima

MILAN FASHION WEEK

2008-10-02T11:55:00.000-07:00

20th September 2008 - Fashion week moves from London to Milan, and I move with it.
My italian fashion journey starts with BLUGIRL.

As we've seen for Ashley Isham and Jenny Pachkam there's a coming back of colours, especially pastels, on the make up trends for SS09.

We all know blusher can give a healthy fresh young look, that's why Charlotte really goes for it with the look for Blugirl.It's pink, it's round shaped and this time it's right on the apple of the cheeks. To complement the blusher a beautiful pink-rasberry-strawberry colour on the lips, applied without definition (no brush or pencil) for an effortless natural look, a la Lolita style.

Here a couple of the images from the backstage, the look that I recreated for Charlotte Tilbury.

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO OF THE BACKSTAGE, I'M THE ONE WITH THE ORANGE DRESS ..WHO LOOKS VERY SERIOUS..

LONDON FASHION WEEK 3

2008-09-26T12:15:00.000-07:00

ARMAND BASI ONE

Wednsday 17th of september 2008, day 4 of London Fashion Week.

I had 2 shows planned for the day with Charlotte Tilbury : Armand Basi One and Jenny Pachkam.

The look that Charlotte created for Armand Basi One was quite natural, simple and elegant. The strong feature were the eyebrows, beautifully groomed and shaped.

Flawless skin with a soft touch of blusher on the cheeks and contouring to create amazing cheekbones.

The eyes were softly defined with matt brown colour on the socket of the eyes and along the bottom lashes line. In the corner shimmery gold powder to open up.Curled lashes and brown mascara.

Shimmery whiteish powder along the nose and on the bow of the lips.

We do the last touch ups on the line and we're soon off to
the BFC Tent for the Jenny Pachkam show.

"My" model for the JENNY PACHKAM show.

I loved the make up that Charlotte designed for JP show!
Pink, Lilac and Silver were the main colours. The girls looked like little fairies.

Starting with a flawless even base we made sure the skin looked perfect and fresh.On the eyes shimmery cream lilac and violet.

We then applied pink blusher which started from the socket of the eyes going down the cheek without covering the apple of the cheeks, in a way that the final shape would look like a little butterfly.

Charlotte wanted to create a soft look but with a bit of edge, so we added some eyeliner in the corner of the eyelid and then smudged it. Black khol on the rim of the eye. Lots of silver in the inside corner. Ultra curled lashes and layerS of mascara. Natural brows, natural lips.

At the very end we added gloss on the eyelids which looked beautiful under the lights.

The show was gorgeous: pinks, oranges, corals, glittery bits, sparkling stones, roses and ribbons, fairytale like.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2

2008-09-26T02:59:00.000-07:00

On Tuesday morning, 3rd day of London Fashion Week I went to the Royal Opera House to work for the Ashley Isham show, the lead make up artist was Charlotte Tilbury. How exciting!
The look that Charlotte designed was colorful, literally. The inspiration was 70's disco.
The colours that we used were pale blue, red, green, (all matt) and shimmery gold on the inside of the corner. We applied them without blending, almost like we were randomly painting the eyes, except it wasn't that random, the girls had to look beautiful, so we had to take into consideration their features and the eye shape.
Beautiful skin, shimmer on the cheekbones, natural lips.

Here some images from the show:

LONDON FASHION WEEK

2008-09-22T05:14:00.000-07:00

London Fashion Week started officially on the 14th of September 2008 with Georgina Harley Smith show.
I was part of the Daniel Sandler team and loved the beautiful look that Daniel designed. The eyes were emphasised by gorgeous metallic colours, shimmery gold on the corner of the eyes and strong eyebrows. The lips remained pale and the skin was even and fresh. Sharp and flickey black eyeliner and curled lashes with a thin layer of mascara.
The girls looked like coulorful peacoks!
Here some pictures:

shooting for Chellozone - June 2008 -

2008-09-09T15:57:00.001-07:00

The shoots for Zone Horror - Chellozone channels was so much fun! I haven't used my special effects skills since college and I was quite impressed with the results. Here some images during the filming:

and some of the final promos:

ICONS - part 2...

2008-09-09T12:16:00.001-07:00

Princess Diana

Madonna

Sofia Loren

Theresa Russell

Isabella Rossellini

Monica Vitti

ICONS..

2008-09-09T10:29:00.000-07:00

While researching for my next job I came across pictures of beautiful women who have been (and some of them are still now) icons, and decided to share this with you.
For a make up artist researching is a crucial part of the job. Getting the right references it's important if the theme of the job is a particular decade or era, or to create a new make up look you can get inspired by a video, or a film, a painting, a sculpture, anything really. The brief for a job could be a certain trend or fashion i.e. shoot with a 80's french vogue feel, or Marie Antoinette and la courte de versailles, Italian vogue vs ID etc.

Here the beautiful icons:

Marilyn Monroe

Elizabeth Taylor

Twiggy

Brigitte Bardot

Audrey Hepburn

Grace Kelly

BRITAIN'S MISSING TOP MODEL

2008-09-05T10:16:00.000-07:00

One of the reason why I love my job is because it varies all the time and it gives me the opportunity to meet interesting and amazing people.
Last May I had a phone call from the Marie Claire office and was asked to do the make up for Marie O'Riordan, the Editor of the magazine. Marie was going to be the main judge on Britain's Missing Top Model a new series for BBC3.
Working for a reality Tv series was a great experience, especially because Britain's Missing Top Model was a new interesting concept in which 8 disabled girls competed for the chance to win a four-page photo spread in the U.K. edition of Marie Claire magazine with top fashion photographer Rankin. It's the perfect chance to see if the fashion industry with its standards and cliches is ready to open its doors to a disabled model.

make up brands updating

2008-09-04T11:04:00.000-07:00

One of my favourite brands is Daniel Sandler cosmetics.
I love to work with DS products because they re easy to use and you can get great results. The formulas are simple and the product itself is straightforward.
And I don't say it only because Daniel is my friend or because I used to sell the brand at Urban Retreat...I truly believe in it!.

At UR doing Emily's make up

PHOTOSHOOT

2008-09-04T09:23:00.000-07:00

LOOK BOOK for ELIZABETH LAU

Yesterday I worked for the look book of Elizabeth Lau new collection, up and coming designer from London. Check out her website: www.elizabethlau.com

Here my magic tools...

....and lovely Aiko

...with his magic ones.

The photographer was the talented Annie Bundfuss
www.anniebundfuss.com

The model was Rachel Cairns who also was in the running for Britain's next top model 4

Accessories...

..and some vibrant colours used for the looks.

Rachel and I playing silly..

It was a very productive day, we got 14 shots and managed to finish on time with beautiful images.

JAPONESQUE PALETTE

2008-07-10T13:56:00.000-07:00

I loved that video!
You'll be able to find the japonesque palettes in lots of US websites, if you google the name of the brand they ll come out. Only..some of them don't deliver outside the US. Others do but will charge a lot for postage and packaging. In London you can find them at SCREEN FACE and CHARLES FOX.
http://www.screenface.com/
http://www.charlesfox.co.uk/

If you're on a budget you can buy an empty palette in an art shop, I found a nice one from Winsor and Newton which was on sale.

WHAT A CLEVER IDEA

2008-07-10T13:21:00.001-07:00

I was recently going through my massive make up kit and decided to reorganize few things.

I found lots of foundation sticks and lipsticks that are unpractical to carry with me all the time, especially when I travel abroad and the weight is an issue.

I decided then that It would be much nicer to have them all in a palette, as a pro it's vital to be organized and tidy.

It is also a good idea for the non pro girls out there, who owns 100s of unfinished lipsticks sitting in the drawer waiting to be wore again.
Check out this fantastic video and it will all make sense.
enjoy!

http://www.dominomag.com/howtos/advice/video/2008/03/makeuppalette

WELCOME

2008-07-10T13:16:00.000-07:00

WELCOME TO THE MAKE UP BLOG!

I will share with you all the secrets and tips related to the make up artistry, beauty and fashion world! how exciting.