The Missoni collection for next year's spring summer is chic and comfortable. The Missoni man is a traveller, sexy and effortless. Miriam Lancellotti (head make up for the show)decided to recreate the tanned look by using Mineralize Skin finish powder by Mac. In that way we achieved a "tanned-from-travelling" look i.e. even but not too embellished, a bit rough if anything. The result was great, the boyz looked healthy without showing they were wearing make up.
While flicking through an old copy of British Vogue I found a very interesting article about the basic tools for our beauty routine: who and when they were invented:
Face Cream: Guerlain’s Secret de Bonne Femme was launched in 1904. Bronzing Powder: Guerlain introduces Terracotta in the 1900’s Mascara: in 1914 Max Factor introduces the first form of mascara for films – a wax to be heated and applied to the lashes. By 1916 this mascara is available to the public. Foundation: Max Factor develops flexible greasepaint for films in 1914 Hair Dye: Eugene Schueller calls his synthetic hair colour Aureole in 1907 and sets up a company called L’Oreal. Nail Polish: Cutex commercialises nail polish in 1917. The Perm: in 1906 Charles Nestle invents his permanent-wave machine False Lashes: Max Factor creates a set out of human hair in 1919, but doesn’t sell false eyelashes commercially until 1959. Eyelash curlers: Kurlash is invented in 1923. Perfumed face powder: Caron introduces Peau Fine in 1920 Hand Held hairdryer: invented in 1969. Before this hood hairdryers were the only option available. Hair Straighteners: Babybliss was the first company to introduce straightening irons for pro use in 1980, but did not sell them to the public until 1987.
WHAT WE USED TO DO…
Egg White: was painted on skin nightly for it’s tightening effect during the 20’s. Liquid Stockings: during World War II a tan-coloured cream was painted over legs and a browline drawn up the backs to mimic stockings. Boot Polish: was used in World War II instead of mascara due to make-up shortages. Milk of Magnesia: was used to lighten skin to the ivory tone that was in vogue in 1916. Flame Soot: was mixed with baby oil to create smoky eyes in the 20’s and 30’s before eyeshadow was invented. A rabbit’s foot: was used as a rouge applicator in the early 20th century. Hair Ironing: in the 60’s women draped their hair over an ironing board and covered it with a paper bag or towel before ironing it straight. Rose Petal Blush: rose petals were steeped in red wine for weeks and used as substitute for rouge during World war II.
Amazing eh?! Full articles from British Vogue December 2006.
It's friday morning..I'm lost in the courtyard of the Universita' Politecnico di Milano trying to find a studio room that nobody seems to know...when my agent calls... Next week I'm going to Venice to do the Chanel cruise show! how exciting!
This is how it went..
14th of May Central Station of Milan 8am: bunch of people with big luggage looking at the time screen waiting for the platform number to come out, destination: Venice. On the train we were chatting and catching up, we’re from the same agency but haven’t seen each other from fashion week, so there’s a lot to say. Arrived in Venice they pick us up and take us to the hotel…This time though it’s not a taxi but a boat, I’m already excited! Even though I’ve been in Venice few times already I never get tired or bored of it, same magical feeling, same sensation of being in a past era. The hotel is amazing, and its’ all booked for Chanel staff and guests especially for the show. This is called class. Apparently Coco Chanel spent a holiday at Lido di Venezia, the whole collection is dedicated to it. Even the backstage passes had a beautiful vintage drawing on it (I’m using mine as a pendant..)
Just about enough time for the check-in and in half an hour it's the call time, on the 3rd floor. While we wait Tatiana Patziz is passing by, my eyes and mouth are about to get wide open but I keep it cool, like I see top models from the 90’s every day… We go to the big balcony and the view is WOW, I will never forget the colour of the see that day, the breeze, the nervousness mixed with excitement.. The make up room is massive. Everything is tidy, perfectly organised. Big lightened mirrors, white sheets on the table. Every table has a selection (huge one) of Chanel make up on it and the name of the artist who will sit there. (This is like it should be, you go at some shows and you don’t even have a centimetre of space to work..) Then Peter Philip arrives, and send us to lunch! It’s going to be a long day and we need to be fed. The buffet is downstairs, by the sea… paradiselike. I’m not particularly hungry, I’m always like that before an important job, must be stress, but I know that later on I will regret it so I force myself. Back to work we start following Peter’s demo, here the description of the make up look: -The inspiration comes from the 20's, the slapper look, very heavy eyes and pale skin. For the base we used PRO LUMIERE liquid foundation for a light dewy skin. We didn’t use foundation or concealer on the eye lids. On the eyes EYE GLOSS from LUMINOUS CREAM QUADRA EYESHADOW a beautiful palette of creamy colours: red, black, gold and pearl. On each table there was a list with the names of the models, and near each name there was the instruction for which coluor use between the black and red cream shadows. The colour was smudged all along the eyelid and blended up to the brow bone on a round shape. Heavy khol black liner on the rim of the eyes, also smudged outside the lashline which goes to be blended with the cream colour applied underneath as well. Lashes were curled but not too much to prevent them from hitting the back of the eye area and ruin the make up (we all know cream eyeshadow smudges very easily) coated with WATERPROOF IRRESISTABLE MASCARA in black. Brows filled in but very lightly, no specific shape. No contour, only blusher FRESQUE 58 on the apples of the cheeks. Lip balm on the lips, the lipstick will be applied later on, on the line. All the make up we used was CHANEL only -
The room quickly fills in with models, I see Myf who I met at Pucci last season and she sees me and come straight away to my table. Myf is very easy going, I like that, I like working with models like her, especially at the shows.
Everything goes very smooth, no “delirio” situations, in a couple of hours they get make up, nails and hair done and they look FAB!.
Downstairs, on the line is actually a DELIRIO. All the dressers screaming names, hundred of people passing by, photographers.., flashes, the usual..then the music starts and the girls catwalk on the beach. It was marvellous. I can’t describe it any longer, this was the job that makes you think that all the sacrifices are worth it, I feel very lucky to have had such an opportunity.
TAKTIK hair has become one of my regular clients. Working for them is great cos' you get to travel, staying in beautiful hotels but most important their shows are always different and creative and I get the chance to experiment too. We had as usual cut and colour on stage, 2 models for the "FORME" (shapes) session, and 4 models for the fantasy theme "THE MONGOLIANS". We worked under pressure, we only had 5 hours to do everyhting..in a smallish backstage where the light wasn't ideal..but we made it, as usual it was a big success.
Here some pictures:
THE MONGOLIANS
MAKE UP TRIAL FOR "THE MONGOLIANS" LOOK
INSPIRATION
THE "FORME"
FACE CHART FOR THE "FORME" MAKE UP
MAKE UP TRIAL
THE HOTEL
PS!! I HAD 5 GIRLS HELPING ME OUT, THEY WERE GREAT. IF YOU RE IN SPAIN AND NEED MAKE UP ARTISTS I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM: LAURA GOMEZ ALONSO, TATIANA SOLER, VIRGINIA MARTIN, LAURA GONZALEZ ORTIZ, CARLA BERCIAL. (for their details send me an e-mail).
A test shoot is an opportunity for the team of photographer, stylist, model, make up and hair to produce pictures to put on their portfolios, websites, etc.. It's is generally not paid (in London and Milan from my experience, I've heard that in NY is different..) but a great chance to work with new people, to experiment and being creative. In London you have this very good website called WHOISTESTING.COM where you only have to put an example of your work and people can contact you to collaborate.
Here some pictures from the backstage of a test shoot I did recently:
STARZ DETAILS
LOVELY MODEL POSING FOR BACKSTAGE SHOT
SHOOTING
THE FINAL PICTURES
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALICE ROSATI STYLING BY IRENE DE SANTIS MAKE UP AND HAIR BY CHIARA GUIZZETTI
Like we've seen at Pucci, the look for Pringle of Scotland was also "naturel" David Jones, (Pat McGrath's main assistant) did the demo: beautiful dewy skin thanks to "face and body" by Mac, a little sculpting under the cheekbones and a touch of vaseline on the lips. Only afterward David decided to add blusher and brown mascara, but it was still very very minimal.
It was again a very relaxed atmosphere..no dramas...only.. to add a lil' glama Miss Pixie Geldof turned up for le maquillage!
The Mila Schon show was a different story...Proper "delirio" on the backstage, like what you always imagined..from the screaming divas to the hours of delay..yelling here and there...the last minute models turning up with crazy big hair and fucsia eyes needing to be ready in 10 minutes for a a nude make up look and a chignon. This is it, this is fashion week for you! ...(I might be more of a relaxed and no dramas show type..if I can chose..) Anyways..the make up team was leaded by Cristine Dupuys, sponsored by Shu Uemura make up. The look was "chic meets interesting": a nice and transparent base with a dust of powder here and there. Eyes defined on the socket and bottom lashes line with a beigy brown eyeshadow. Soft mascara. The eyebrows made the difference: with a brow brush deeped in thick concealer we pushed them upward, to give them the effect of disappearing. We draw the "new ones" with a light brown pencil: thin and straight with a minimal curving at the end. Sculpted cheekbones, natural pink lips et voila' the look is done!
Fashion week has kicked in, lots of good energy around Milano. My call time was 9:15 meeting the international MAC team for the PUCCI show, key make up artist LISA BUTLER, yippi! (I always wanted working with her). The backstage was crowded with hairdressers and maquilleurs, brushes, hairdryers, hair extensions, crazy! It was very nice to find familiar faces: people I met during the London days, people met recently in Milan, people coming from America, Australia, Malasia met in the past fashion seasons, it was a great feeling! Then Lisa arrives on her super high stilettos and it's time to play. Lisa's assistants start distributing samples of make up that we re going to use, then it's demo time and we're all following every single details. The make-up up look was meant to be very plain, since the clothes were quite full on they wanted the girls to look simple, almost boyish, yet fresh. We applied first Strobe cream by Mac wich has a nice louminous, slightly shimmery finish and on top a thick-ish foundation. The trick was to apply the foundation gradually, layer on top of layer, tapping with the brush. In this way you get an even base, medium coverage without looking too heavy or mask-like.To set the foundation we used MAC mineral powder, great to seal the base. Very interesting way of doing the eyebrows: we kept the colour light or brown but not dark. We filled them in with a brush but instead of being a typical eyebrow brush we used a regular eyeshadow brush to achieve a soft stroke with little definition. On the eyes only Strobe, brown mascara and a touch of brown eyeliner on the rim of the eyes. Strobe on the lips too.
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