Monday 25 January 2010

VERSUS FOR A.WINTOUR AND SUZY MENKES

The last day of two amazing weeks of fashion was at the Versace Theatre, where we prepared the models for 2 private super exclusive presentations: one for A. Wintour and later in the evening for Suzy Menkez.

It was very excting to meet Kristopher Kane and his siter Tammy who revamped the Versus line with a new fresh and young collection.

Here the picture of Donatella and Kristopher with the girls.



......and the article that Suzy Menkes wrote for the NY Times:


"By SUZY MENKES


Published: September 27, 2009

MILAN — “It is emotional for me,” said Donatella Versace as she viewed the plinths displaying scarlet dresses snapped with multi-colored safety pins and inserts of metal mesh — all created in tandem with the British designer Christopher Kane.

For Ms. Versace, the reincarnation of her personal Versus line, revealed Sunday, was a sweet memory of the early 1990s when her brother, Gianni, encouraged her creativity.

And the fact that Mr. Kane works with his sister, Tammy, was another piquant link between past and present.

“He’s a volcano of ideas,” Ms. Versace said. “He knows how to dress a woman’s body and he looks at young people and the young world, and that’s the future.”

Mr. Kane, 27, recalled how he was mesmerized as a pre-teen by the Versus boutique in his native Glasgow and how he went through the “labyrinth” of archives to find fresh inspiration for this collection.

The Versus collaboration seemed a perfect fit — literally in the cute, full-skirted dresses and figuratively in the match with Gianni Versace’s heritage. Using cut-out Neoprene lace to decorate finely pleated skirts and hanging his dresses on form-fitting bustiers, the Kane/Versus presentation looked right.

As for those strategic Versace safety pins that held together Elizabeth Hurley’s dress — and launched her career — Mr. Kane turned them into multi-colored embellishment for dresses and shoes. His own addition was cut-out sleeves hanging by straps. Yet the collection was never come-on or super sexy — rather a sleek and chic amalgam of Versus vintage and new. "

Sunday 10 January 2010

AQUILANO RIMONDI S/S 2010

For the Aquilano Rimondi report I'll start straight away from  the pictures:






 
images from dazeddigital.com

I loved every single bit about this show! from the sparkling pieces on the clothes, the colours, hair, make up, models, team, energy, absolutely everything.
Peter Phillips, key Make up Artist for Aquilano Rimondi created a look that was sexy, modern, rockchick-esque.

I'm not going to spend much time talking about the base, we used Vitalumiere fluid by Chanel, for more details and advice  you can check the GianFranco Ferre' page of my blog.

The eyes were the focus :to start with we applied a liquid texture eyeshadow which has a powdery finish once is dry. It mind sound weird at first, but I promise that it leaves a gorgeous effect. You get an intense colour result with just one layer  with the benefit that it won't crease, like most of liquid and cream based shadows do.
You can find find more info and a video on how to apply it here, the name of the product is Ombre d'Eau (shade: Delta).
Like on the video we applied the product on the eyelid and blended the excess up on the crease (with a flat eyeshadow brush).
Afterward with a soft pony tail brush we added, again on the crease of the eyes, a loose sparkling, bronzy colour powder to give more definition.
Black khol on the rim of the eyes, Ombre d'Eua again on the bottom of the lid, and thick mascara for the ultimate rockchick look.

The same loose powder that we used on the eyes was once again utilized on the high part of the cheekbones, continuing along the temples (see the first pic above)

The eyebrows were filled in just when needed, and on the lips a touch of natural colour.

I think it looked cool and sexy, it's easy to recreate and can be suitable for everybody for a nite out look at the disco + party  + concert  and more..


 


Wednesday 6 January 2010

GIANFRANCO FERRE' AND JIL SANDER S/S 2010

My day started quite early in the morning with the call time for Gianfranco Ferre' show, chief MUA Peter Phillips.
As usual I bump into familiar faces, apart from the MUA, I recognize all the hairdressers part of Luigi Murenu's team..chit chat chit chat chit chat!
Then everybody arrives and it's demo time.
The look was very simple  but at the end, with the hair look completed and the clothes on, the whole image became very strong.


Being Peter  the artistic director for Chanel make up, lots of  make up items on the tables was labelled double c.


The Chanel base is slightly more covering compared to what I normally use..but  easy to blend and also  luminous, making the skin looking dewy and fresh. For a more transparent effect you can mix it with a moistorizing lotion.
If you're stuck with the application technique, check out this video on the Chanel website that can be of help

Powder on top for the ultimate matt look, (except on the cheekbones), groomed eyebrows and a lovely warm natural  brownish lipstick.
On the eyes just a touch of beige eyeliner on the rim of the eyes.
As anticipated we left the cheekbones without powder and that was because  we applied only at the very end (on the line) a touch of transparent lipgloss, which will look gorgeous under the lights.

 here the images, from elle.com















As soon as we finished GFF we jumped on the bus to go the next location: the Jil Sander show.
The make up look was very similar to the previous show, very minimal with no colour on the lips, just natural. The hair style was  different here, so the general look was less polished, more girl next door type.
So we started straight away and finish way before the runaway time...It's nice for a change working without time pressure!





images from style.com






Monday 4 January 2010

MILAN FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 - VDP

September has definitely been an exciting month, not only I did 5 shows in London, I was also booked to assist amazing artists for the Milan fashion week.
So it started with the presentation for  VDP (Via delle Perle) working with italian MUA Miriam Langelotti, known for her "natural look". Miriam likes to use very light foundations to make the skin looking natural and glowy.
These days the way of doing make-up has changed compared to the 90's, where the foundation was applied quite thick to give strong coverage. Not only you couldn't see blemishes anymore, the general effect was porcelain skin-like. It was also very matt, shine was a big no-no.
Nowdays, especially for fashion, the trend is to see the skin coming through,  freckles are allowed, the less product you put, the better. The skin looks younger and fresher, there is no need to cover it comnpletely, you can hide only what you don't want to be seen.
A touch of glow/shine on the cheekbones is healthy and chic (mind you only a touch, if the skin is oily naturally it's best to use a specific foundation for only skins) for the best non-make up effect.

Here the video taken on the day.

VDP VIDEO. click on VIDEO EVENTS

and some images taken from styleandfashion.blogosfere.it
 

Sunday 3 January 2010

LFW DAY 5 - ROKSANDA LLINCIC S/S 2010

The Make up look for Roksanda Llincic show was one of my favourite: warm colours and soft blending was the formula.
Lucia Pica the head MUA used a selection of 4 different eyeshadow on the tones of terracotta, beige, browns and goldy yellows, blended in softly for a velvet-like effect. The secret for achiving this softness is to keep blending with a big  soft eyeshadow brush or a pony tail brush. It's only by blending that you get rid of those harsh lines that make the make up looking heavy and dragqueeny.
Warm bronzing powder under the cheekbones and on the temples.
Concealer on the eyebrows: this way you don't "erase" the eybrows completely but you make them looking less obvious.
No colour on the lips and lots of powder to create a perfect matt finish.





 Images from elle.com

Saturday 2 January 2010

PAUL SMITH S/S 2010- LFW DAY 4

The Paul Smith show was full of colours and fun!
The clothes had an ethnic influence, splashed with pastel colours, jungle-esque mood.




 

The hair look consisted in a very tight chignon with a "madeofplaits- flower shape-crown" at the top.



The make up look was  simple yet effective.
Petros Petrohilos was the chief MUA; with his  transparent base made the girls skin looking fresh and natural. A touch of  NARS Multiple stick in St Barts under the cheek bones and on the socket of the eyes and....FULL ON COLOUR on the lips. Matt orange, purple, blue and green were the colours. No lipstick but lip and eye liners instead, for a strong impact.
Since we used pencils  we applied lots of vaseline befere hand, to avoid the lips to look dry and cracky. To achieve a very intense colour we applied  several layers, this way you make the look strong, being the lips the only feature. A washed effect wouldn't have been the same. It's details like this that make the difference when you design a make up look.





pictures from dazeddigital.com

Everything went smooth...apart from a model having a crisis followed by big time tears..right after I finished doing her make-up....this is the crazy fashion world for you!!