I was excited at the idea of being part of the team for the Julien Macdonald show, first of all because he's one of the most established british desgner, I like his collections and and third...Charlotte Tillbury was the key MUA..I like her style, I get inspired..
I'm gonna show the pictures straight away:
pictures from elle.com
What I like about this look is the fact that it's fairly natural yet sexy.
It's not about colours on the eyes or on the lips, it's about playing with the shimmers, highlighting and shading and making the skin loooking glowy and healthy.
To start with we used MyFace base, a lightweight foundation part of Charlotte's new make-up range Myface Cosmetics.
We then used the blusher in Medium Dark under the cheekbones and a touch on the apple of the cheeks for a sunkissed effect.
On the eyes: with a cream texture colour in warmish brown we defined the socket of the eyes and the bottom of teh eyelid, gently, with a soft stroke, well blended, no harsh lines.
Then with a loose white shimmery powder we filled in the eyelids. With the same powder we dotted the inside corner of the eyes, applied along the bridge on the nose, the bow of the lips, little touch on lips too and finally on the cheekbones.
The only strong (ish) part of the make up consisted on filling in the eyebrows making them quite thick, always soft and natural though, Brooke Shields' style.
As you can see the shimmer has created an amazing effect under the lighting, the girls were catwalking in a beautiful place reminding us of an italian piazza, looking modern, sexy and gorgeous.
It's the second day of LFW and it was meant to be a day off...when at the last minute I 'm asked to assist Lisa Eldridge for the Osman Yousefada show!! great, couldn't ask for more. I've never worked with Lisa before but i heard amazing things about her.
And all I've heard was true...not only she's an amzing artist but sh'e s also a kind, patient and beautiful!
In the backstage area was real crazy! It was the first year at the Somerset House, the place was beautiful...packed with fashionistas, photographers and press...unfortunately they gave us the wrong call time..well the actual call time was right but they let us in with an hour delay...which meant less time to do everything...
Lisa kept working very calm and focused, giving us a good vibe and positive energy.
In the end we did all the girls, they looked amazing and the show was a success!
The make-up look had a late 80's early 90's reference, which matched with a long sleek pony tail would just give you the impression of having a deja vu...of Linda and Naomi working the catwalk!
Image from: cltreanor.blogspot.com
HOW WE ACHIEVED THE LOOK
As mentioned the look was 80's/90's so quite full on.
The base had a matte finish, no shimmer or shine. The coverage was normal, not see through or light.
Watching Lisa doing the eyes was a pleasure..she literally did it in 2 minutes...I've been doing this job for quite a while but I've never seen anybody so fast and precise all in once!
We used black eyeshadow with black khol for the inside of the eyes and a touch of irridescent blue/ lilac eyeshadow to apply at the end, on top of the eyelid. The shape was a little elongated, sharp, cat-eye like, with full colour. Eyeshadow on the bottom of the yelid too, for a smokey feel.
The eyebrow were filled in, following the natural shape.
No blusher on the cheeks, just contouring under the cheekbones.
On the lips we used a non coloured lip base to create a "deleted" effect.
London is my favourite town; it has been “home” for several years, so going back always fills me with happiness. Even better if the reason for visiting is London Fashion Week!
My first show was Sass and Bide, assisting chief MUA Petros Petrohilos, using REVLON make-up.
Once arrived I’m very glad to notice familiar faces, colleagues who I haven’t seen for ages….
Yuko Fredriksson in particular…we met at a fashion show years before assisting Petros… where we did lots of body make up….
Ella Bradley is another great MUA who I met on a charity show for TRAID..
That time I ended up doing her make up, due to a very last minute shortage of models....funny!
Once everybody‘s arrived it’s time for the demo.
The look was very natural with focus on the eyes, a subtle reference to the 60’s, extremely subtle.
-Working with different MUA is as interesting as you can learn various techniques and other ways of doing make up. This season has been particularly interesting for me observing the way of doing the base, at the end of it I had the whole vision, I absorbed what I’ve learned and I can now customise it to my style. That’s why it’s great working for events like fashion week, you have the opportunity to work with amazing artists -
We started with a light, almost transparent base; where you would cover the little blemishes but leave the skin coming through, think of a tinted moisturiser-like cover.
Thin layer of powder just on the T zone.
On the eyes we used a goldy brown, slightly shimmery stick on the socket and a pale highlighter on the eyelid, both very soft. The colour on the crease applied with the brush, started from the side of the nose to give the eyes definition, and the highlighter on the lids to add luminosity.
Inside the rim of the eyes we applied Revlon Luxurious Colour Khol Eyeliner in white, only from half way through till the end. The same eyeliner was used to enhance the inside corner of the eyes, by drawing a horizontal V along the eye shape itself and then blending it with a brush.
The mascara was the gorgeous Doubletwist, the latest from Revlon, applied endlessly. Layers and layers of mascara to make the lashes spidery and thick.
Under the cheekbones a hint of the same brown colour that we used on the eyes for a little definition and on the lips Nude Attitude a very nice beigy-pink soft textured lipstick by Revlon.
More pictures from my archive, just to keep you warm before the new season's shows.
These ones are from the Atelier 1 show AW08-09, I was the key MUA
The collection was beautiful, earthy colours like olive green, brown, and grey were predominant with a touch of shiny silver from time to time, sparkling like a lake in the middle of a forest.
At the make up test the designer was looking for something bright, like a splash of colour. Originally I thought about some vivid colours on the eyes but then we decided that it didn't matter where it was placed, it had to be there somewhere, like a colorful fashion accessory.
A clean delicate and beautiful base was a must, to enhance the colours
I was going to put afterward. I have used Perfect Canvas, a very nice smooth liquid base with a hint of luminosity, Hide It concealer and Invisible Blotting Powder, all by Daniel Sandler Cosmetics
On the eye sockets and at the bottom of the eyelids a soft stroke of Taupe (blusher) by MAC . Taupe again under the cheeckbones for a bit of definition.
Eyebrows filled in only the necessary, and fake lashes (medium, not thick ones).
On the lips just a touch of concealer applied with fingertips (tons of lipbalm required to prevent them from looking dry).
Then we applied the bright colours:for the eyes (green and blue) we used a selection of eyeshadows from different brands, while for cheeks and lips (pink, orange, yellow and lilac) we used water based colours, the ones you use for facepainting ( GRIMAS are my favorite.
To add some "catching the light" effect we applied at the very end some vaseline on eyelids and cheeckbones, et voila'! the look is done.
It was a great experience, being in charge was a big responsability but also very rewarding. I couldn't have done it without the help of my marvellous "affectionados" from the Daniel Sandler team: Kathrine O'Neill, Heather White and Trevor Killean(http://www.danielsandler.com/team)
Working with Daniel Sandler has thought me a lot. Not only he's a very talented make up artist, Daniel is also a beautiful genuine person and a very special friend.
To follow some of the shows I did with Daniel, first assistant on his team.
While tidying up my laptop I found pictures that brought me back to nice old memories and though about uploading them and share them, they can be useful for ideas or reference.
This is one of the first “proper” show that I did with Daniel Sandler, in London, for Pucci. I remember being very nervous…but everything went smooth, Daniel was soo lovely.
These ones are from the Belle and Bunty show during London Fashion Week S/S06, with Daniel Sandler, sponsored by Bourjois cosmetics and Shavata
September 2006 - Milan- my first show in my own country. I was first assistant in Daniel Sandler's team for the Jenny Pachkam show.
The Missoni collection for next year's spring summer is chic and comfortable. The Missoni man is a traveller, sexy and effortless. Miriam Lancellotti (head make up for the show)decided to recreate the tanned look by using Mineralize Skin finish powder by Mac. In that way we achieved a "tanned-from-travelling" look i.e. even but not too embellished, a bit rough if anything. The result was great, the boyz looked healthy without showing they were wearing make up.
While flicking through an old copy of British Vogue I found a very interesting article about the basic tools for our beauty routine: who and when they were invented:
Face Cream: Guerlain’s Secret de Bonne Femme was launched in 1904. Bronzing Powder: Guerlain introduces Terracotta in the 1900’s Mascara: in 1914 Max Factor introduces the first form of mascara for films – a wax to be heated and applied to the lashes. By 1916 this mascara is available to the public. Foundation: Max Factor develops flexible greasepaint for films in 1914 Hair Dye: Eugene Schueller calls his synthetic hair colour Aureole in 1907 and sets up a company called L’Oreal. Nail Polish: Cutex commercialises nail polish in 1917. The Perm: in 1906 Charles Nestle invents his permanent-wave machine False Lashes: Max Factor creates a set out of human hair in 1919, but doesn’t sell false eyelashes commercially until 1959. Eyelash curlers: Kurlash is invented in 1923. Perfumed face powder: Caron introduces Peau Fine in 1920 Hand Held hairdryer: invented in 1969. Before this hood hairdryers were the only option available. Hair Straighteners: Babybliss was the first company to introduce straightening irons for pro use in 1980, but did not sell them to the public until 1987.
WHAT WE USED TO DO…
Egg White: was painted on skin nightly for it’s tightening effect during the 20’s. Liquid Stockings: during World War II a tan-coloured cream was painted over legs and a browline drawn up the backs to mimic stockings. Boot Polish: was used in World War II instead of mascara due to make-up shortages. Milk of Magnesia: was used to lighten skin to the ivory tone that was in vogue in 1916. Flame Soot: was mixed with baby oil to create smoky eyes in the 20’s and 30’s before eyeshadow was invented. A rabbit’s foot: was used as a rouge applicator in the early 20th century. Hair Ironing: in the 60’s women draped their hair over an ironing board and covered it with a paper bag or towel before ironing it straight. Rose Petal Blush: rose petals were steeped in red wine for weeks and used as substitute for rouge during World war II.
Amazing eh?! Full articles from British Vogue December 2006.
It's friday morning..I'm lost in the courtyard of the Universita' Politecnico di Milano trying to find a studio room that nobody seems to know...when my agent calls... Next week I'm going to Venice to do the Chanel cruise show! how exciting!
This is how it went..
14th of May Central Station of Milan 8am: bunch of people with big luggage looking at the time screen waiting for the platform number to come out, destination: Venice. On the train we were chatting and catching up, we’re from the same agency but haven’t seen each other from fashion week, so there’s a lot to say. Arrived in Venice they pick us up and take us to the hotel…This time though it’s not a taxi but a boat, I’m already excited! Even though I’ve been in Venice few times already I never get tired or bored of it, same magical feeling, same sensation of being in a past era. The hotel is amazing, and its’ all booked for Chanel staff and guests especially for the show. This is called class. Apparently Coco Chanel spent a holiday at Lido di Venezia, the whole collection is dedicated to it. Even the backstage passes had a beautiful vintage drawing on it (I’m using mine as a pendant..)
Just about enough time for the check-in and in half an hour it's the call time, on the 3rd floor. While we wait Tatiana Patziz is passing by, my eyes and mouth are about to get wide open but I keep it cool, like I see top models from the 90’s every day… We go to the big balcony and the view is WOW, I will never forget the colour of the see that day, the breeze, the nervousness mixed with excitement.. The make up room is massive. Everything is tidy, perfectly organised. Big lightened mirrors, white sheets on the table. Every table has a selection (huge one) of Chanel make up on it and the name of the artist who will sit there. (This is like it should be, you go at some shows and you don’t even have a centimetre of space to work..) Then Peter Philip arrives, and send us to lunch! It’s going to be a long day and we need to be fed. The buffet is downstairs, by the sea… paradiselike. I’m not particularly hungry, I’m always like that before an important job, must be stress, but I know that later on I will regret it so I force myself. Back to work we start following Peter’s demo, here the description of the make up look: -The inspiration comes from the 20's, the slapper look, very heavy eyes and pale skin. For the base we used PRO LUMIERE liquid foundation for a light dewy skin. We didn’t use foundation or concealer on the eye lids. On the eyes EYE GLOSS from LUMINOUS CREAM QUADRA EYESHADOW a beautiful palette of creamy colours: red, black, gold and pearl. On each table there was a list with the names of the models, and near each name there was the instruction for which coluor use between the black and red cream shadows. The colour was smudged all along the eyelid and blended up to the brow bone on a round shape. Heavy khol black liner on the rim of the eyes, also smudged outside the lashline which goes to be blended with the cream colour applied underneath as well. Lashes were curled but not too much to prevent them from hitting the back of the eye area and ruin the make up (we all know cream eyeshadow smudges very easily) coated with WATERPROOF IRRESISTABLE MASCARA in black. Brows filled in but very lightly, no specific shape. No contour, only blusher FRESQUE 58 on the apples of the cheeks. Lip balm on the lips, the lipstick will be applied later on, on the line. All the make up we used was CHANEL only -
The room quickly fills in with models, I see Myf who I met at Pucci last season and she sees me and come straight away to my table. Myf is very easy going, I like that, I like working with models like her, especially at the shows.
Everything goes very smooth, no “delirio” situations, in a couple of hours they get make up, nails and hair done and they look FAB!.
Downstairs, on the line is actually a DELIRIO. All the dressers screaming names, hundred of people passing by, photographers.., flashes, the usual..then the music starts and the girls catwalk on the beach. It was marvellous. I can’t describe it any longer, this was the job that makes you think that all the sacrifices are worth it, I feel very lucky to have had such an opportunity.
TAKTIK hair has become one of my regular clients. Working for them is great cos' you get to travel, staying in beautiful hotels but most important their shows are always different and creative and I get the chance to experiment too. We had as usual cut and colour on stage, 2 models for the "FORME" (shapes) session, and 4 models for the fantasy theme "THE MONGOLIANS". We worked under pressure, we only had 5 hours to do everyhting..in a smallish backstage where the light wasn't ideal..but we made it, as usual it was a big success.
Here some pictures:
THE MONGOLIANS
MAKE UP TRIAL FOR "THE MONGOLIANS" LOOK
INSPIRATION
THE "FORME"
FACE CHART FOR THE "FORME" MAKE UP
MAKE UP TRIAL
THE HOTEL
PS!! I HAD 5 GIRLS HELPING ME OUT, THEY WERE GREAT. IF YOU RE IN SPAIN AND NEED MAKE UP ARTISTS I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM: LAURA GOMEZ ALONSO, TATIANA SOLER, VIRGINIA MARTIN, LAURA GONZALEZ ORTIZ, CARLA BERCIAL. (for their details send me an e-mail).
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