AQUILANO RIMONDI S/S 2010

For the Aquilano Rimondi report I'll start straight away from  the pictures:

 

images from dazeddigital.com

I loved every single bit about this show! from the sparkling pieces on the clothes, the colours, hair, make up, models, team, energy, absolutely everything.

Peter Phillips, key Make up Artist for Aquilano Rimondi created a look that was sexy, modern, rockchick-esque.

I'm not going to spend much time talking about the base, we used Vitalumiere fluid by Chanel, for more details and advice  you can check the GianFranco Ferre' page of my blog.

The eyes were the focus :to start with we applied a liquid texture eyeshadow which has a powdery finish once is dry. It mind sound weird at first, but I promise that it leaves a gorgeous effect. You get an intense colour result with just one layer  with the benefit that it won't crease, like most of liquid and cream based shadows do.

You can find find more info and a video on how to apply it here, the name of the product is Ombre d'Eau (shade: Delta).

Like on the video we applied the product on the eyelid and blended the excess up on the crease (with a flat eyeshadow brush).

Afterward with a soft pony tail brush we added, again on the crease of the eyes, a loose sparkling, bronzy colour powder to give more definition.

Black khol on the rim of the eyes, Ombre d'Eua again on the bottom of the lid, and thick mascara for the ultimate rockchick look.

The same loose powder that we used on the eyes was once again utilized on the high part of the cheekbones, continuing along the temples (see the first pic above)

The eyebrows were filled in just when needed, and on the lips a touch of natural colour.

I think it looked cool and sexy, it's easy to recreate and can be suitable for everybody for a nite out look at the disco + party  + concert  and more..

 

GIANFRANCO FERRE' AND JIL SANDER S/S 2010

My day started quite early in the morning with the call time for Gianfranco Ferre' show, chief MUA Peter Phillips.
As usual I bump into familiar faces, apart from the MUA, I recognize all the hairdressers part of Luigi Murenu's team..chit chat chit chat chit chat!
Then everybody arrives and it's demo time.
The look was very simple  but at the end, with the hair look completed and the clothes on, the whole image became very strong.

Being Peter  the artistic director for Chanel make up, lots of  make up items on the tables was labelled double c.


The Chanel base is slightly more covering compared to what I normally use..but  easy to blend and also  luminous, making the skin looking dewy and fresh. For a more transparent effect you can mix it with a moistorizing lotion.
If you're stuck with the application technique, check out this video on the Chanel website that can be of help

Powder on top for the ultimate matt look, (except on the cheekbones), groomed eyebrows and a lovely warm natural  brownish lipstick.
On the eyes just a touch of beige eyeliner on the rim of the eyes.
As anticipated we left the cheekbones without powder and that was because  we applied only at the very end (on the line) a touch of transparent lipgloss, which will look gorgeous under the lights.

 here the images, from elle.com

As soon as we finished GFF we jumped on the bus to go the next location: the Jil Sander show.
The make up look was very similar to the previous show, very minimal with no colour on the lips, just natural. The hair style was  different here, so the general look was less polished, more girl next door type.
So we started straight away and finish way before the runaway time...It's nice for a change working without time pressure!

images from style.com

MILAN FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 - VDP

September has definitely been an exciting month, not only I did 5 shows in London, I was also booked to assist amazing artists for the Milan fashion week.
So it started with the presentation for  VDP (Via delle Perle) working with italian MUA Miriam Langelotti, known for her "natural look". Miriam likes to use very light foundations to make the skin looking natural and glowy.
These days the way of doing make-up has changed compared to the 90's, where the foundation was applied quite thick to give strong coverage. Not only you couldn't see blemishes anymore, the general effect was porcelain skin-like. It was also very matt, shine was a big no-no.
Nowdays, especially for fashion, the trend is to see the skin coming through,  freckles are allowed, the less product you put, the better. The skin looks younger and fresher, there is no need to cover it comnpletely, you can hide only what you don't want to be seen.
A touch of glow/shine on the cheekbones is healthy and chic (mind you only a touch, if the skin is oily naturally it's best to use a specific foundation for only skins) for the best non-make up effect.

Here the video taken on the day.

VDP VIDEO. click on VIDEO EVENTS

and some images taken from styleandfashion.blogosfere.it
 

LFW DAY 5 - ROKSANDA LLINCIC S/S 2010

The Make up look for Roksanda Llincic show was one of my favourite: warm colours and soft blending was the formula.
Lucia Pica the head MUA used a selection of 4 different eyeshadow on the tones of terracotta, beige, browns and goldy yellows, blended in softly for a velvet-like effect. The secret for achiving this softness is to keep blending with a big  soft eyeshadow brush or a pony tail brush. It's only by blending that you get rid of those harsh lines that make the make up looking heavy and dragqueeny.
Warm bronzing powder under the cheekbones and on the temples.
Concealer on the eyebrows: this way you don't "erase" the eybrows completely but you make them looking less obvious.
No colour on the lips and lots of powder to create a perfect matt finish.

 Images from elle.com

PAUL SMITH S/S 2010- LFW DAY 4

The Paul Smith show was full of colours and fun!
The clothes had an ethnic influence, splashed with pastel colours, jungle-esque mood.

 

The hair look consisted in a very tight chignon with a "madeofplaits- flower shape-crown" at the top.

The make up look was  simple yet effective.
Petros Petrohilos was the chief MUA; with his  transparent base made the girls skin looking fresh and natural. A touch of  NARS Multiple stick in St Barts under the cheek bones and on the socket of the eyes and....FULL ON COLOUR on the lips. Matt orange, purple, blue and green were the colours. No lipstick but lip and eye liners instead, for a strong impact.
Since we used pencils  we applied lots of vaseline befere hand, to avoid the lips to look dry and cracky. To achieve a very intense colour we applied  several layers, this way you make the look strong, being the lips the only feature. A washed effect wouldn't have been the same. It's details like this that make the difference when you design a make up look.

pictures from dazeddigital.com

Everything went smooth...apart from a model having a crisis followed by big time tears..right after I finished doing her make-up....this is the crazy fashion world for you!!

LFW S/S 2010 DAY 3 - JULIEN MACDONALD

I was excited at the idea of being part of the team for the Julien Macdonald show, first of all because he's one of the most established british desgner, I like his collections and and third...Charlotte Tillbury was the key MUA..I like her style, I get inspired..
I'm gonna show the pictures straight away:

                          pictures from elle.com

What I like about this look is the fact that it's fairly natural yet sexy.

It's not about colours on the eyes or on the lips, it's about playing with the shimmers, highlighting and shading and making the skin loooking glowy and healthy.

To start with we used MyFace base, a lightweight foundation part of Charlotte's new make-up range Myface Cosmetics.

We then used the blusher in Medium Dark under the cheekbones and a touch on the apple of the cheeks for a sunkissed effect.

On the eyes: with a cream texture colour in warmish brown we defined the socket of the eyes  and the bottom of teh eyelid, gently, with a soft stroke, well blended, no harsh lines.
Then with a loose white shimmery powder we filled in the eyelids. With the same powder we dotted the inside corner of the eyes, applied along the bridge on the nose, the bow of the lips, little touch on lips too and finally on the cheekbones.
The only strong (ish) part of the make up consisted on filling in the eyebrows making them quite thick, always soft and natural though,  Brooke Shields' style.

watch the video (from elle.com)

As you can see  the shimmer has created an amazing effect under the lighting, the girls were catwalking in a beautiful place reminding us of  an italian piazza, looking modern, sexy and gorgeous.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 DAY 2 - OSMAN YOUSEFADA

It's the second day of LFW and it was meant to be a day off...when at the last minute I 'm asked to assist Lisa Eldridge for the Osman Yousefada show!! great, couldn't ask for more. I've never worked with Lisa before but i heard amazing things about her.
And all I've heard was true...not only she's an amzing artist but sh'e s also a kind, patient and beautiful!
In the backstage area was real crazy! It was the first year at the Somerset House, the place was beautiful...packed with fashionistas, photographers and press...unfortunately they gave us the wrong call time..well the actual call time was right but they let us in with an hour delay...which meant less time to do everything...
Lisa kept working very calm and focused, giving us a good vibe and positive energy.
In the end we did all the girls, they looked amazing  and the show was a success!
The make-up look had a late 80's early 90's reference, which matched with a long sleek pony tail  would just give you the impression of having a deja vu...of Linda and Naomi working the catwalk!

Image from: cltreanor.blogspot.com

HOW WE ACHIEVED THE LOOK

As mentioned the look was 80's/90's so quite full on.

The base had a matte finish, no shimmer or shine. The coverage was normal, not see through or light.

Watching Lisa doing the eyes was a pleasure..she literally did it in 2 minutes...I've been doing this job for quite a while but I've never seen anybody so fast and precise all in once!

We used black eyeshadow with black khol for the inside of the eyes and a touch of irridescent blue/ lilac eyeshadow to apply at the end, on top of the eyelid. The shape was a little elongated, sharp, cat-eye like, with full colour. Eyeshadow on the bottom of the yelid too, for a smokey feel.

The eyebrow were filled in, following the natural shape.

No blusher on the cheeks, just contouring under the cheekbones.

On the lips we used a non coloured lip base to create a "deleted" effect.

Images from elle.com