Saturday, 26 December 2009

LFW S/S 2010 DAY 3 - JULIEN MACDONALD

I was excited at the idea of being part of the team for the Julien Macdonald show, first of all because he's one of the most established british desgner, I like his collections and and third...Charlotte Tillbury was the key MUA..I like her style, I get inspired..
I'm gonna show the pictures straight away:


                          pictures from elle.com

What I like about this look is the fact that it's fairly natural yet sexy.
It's not about colours on the eyes or on the lips, it's about playing with the shimmers, highlighting and shading and making the skin loooking glowy and healthy.
To start with we used MyFace base, a lightweight foundation part of Charlotte's new make-up range Myface Cosmetics.
We then used the blusher in Medium Dark under the cheekbones and a touch on the apple of the cheeks for a sunkissed effect.
On the eyes: with a cream texture colour in warmish brown we defined the socket of the eyes  and the bottom of teh eyelid, gently, with a soft stroke, well blended, no harsh lines.
Then with a loose white shimmery powder we filled in the eyelids. With the same powder we dotted the inside corner of the eyes, applied along the bridge on the nose, the bow of the lips, little touch on lips too and finally on the cheekbones.
The only strong (ish) part of the make up consisted on filling in the eyebrows making them quite thick, always soft and natural though,  Brooke Shields' style.

watch the video (from elle.com)

As you can see  the shimmer has created an amazing effect under the lighting, the girls were catwalking in a beautiful place reminding us of  an italian piazza, looking modern, sexy and gorgeous.

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010 DAY 2 - OSMAN YOUSEFADA

It's the second day of LFW and it was meant to be a day off...when at the last minute I 'm asked to assist Lisa Eldridge for the Osman Yousefada show!! great, couldn't ask for more. I've never worked with Lisa before but i heard amazing things about her.
And all I've heard was true...not only she's an amzing artist but sh'e s also a kind, patient and beautiful!
In the backstage area was real crazy! It was the first year at the Somerset House, the place was beautiful...packed with fashionistas, photographers and press...unfortunately they gave us the wrong call time..well the actual call time was right but they let us in with an hour delay...which meant less time to do everything...
Lisa kept working very calm and focused, giving us a good vibe and positive energy.
In the end we did all the girls, they looked amazing  and the show was a success!
The make-up look had a late 80's early 90's reference, which matched with a long sleek pony tail  would just give you the impression of having a deja vu...of Linda and Naomi working the catwalk!



Image from: cltreanor.blogspot.com

HOW WE ACHIEVED THE LOOK
As mentioned the look was 80's/90's so quite full on.
The base had a matte finish, no shimmer or shine. The coverage was normal, not see through or light.
Watching Lisa doing the eyes was a pleasure..she literally did it in 2 minutes...I've been doing this job for quite a while but I've never seen anybody so fast and precise all in once!
We used black eyeshadow with black khol for the inside of the eyes and a touch of irridescent blue/ lilac eyeshadow to apply at the end, on top of the eyelid. The shape was a little elongated, sharp, cat-eye like, with full colour. Eyeshadow on the bottom of the yelid too, for a smokey feel.
The eyebrow were filled in, following the natural shape.
No blusher on the cheeks, just contouring under the cheekbones.
On the lips we used a non coloured lip base to create a "deleted" effect.




Images from elle.com





Sunday, 18 October 2009

LONDON FASHION WEEK S/S 2010- SASS AND BIDE

London is my favourite town; it has been “home” for several years, so going back always fills me with happiness. Even better if the reason for visiting is London Fashion Week!

My first show was Sass and Bide, assisting chief MUA Petros Petrohilos, using REVLON make-up.

Once arrived I’m very glad to notice familiar faces, colleagues who I haven’t seen for ages….
Yuko Fredriksson in particular…we met at a fashion show years before assisting Petros… where we did lots of body make up….
Ella Bradley is another great MUA who I met on a charity show for TRAID..
That time I ended up doing her make up, due to a very last minute shortage of models....funny!

Once everybody‘s arrived it’s time for the demo.
The look was very natural with focus on the eyes, a subtle reference to the 60’s, extremely subtle.

-Working with different MUA is as interesting as you can learn various techniques and other ways of doing make up. This season has been particularly interesting for me observing the way of doing the base, at the end of it I had the whole vision, I absorbed what I’ve learned and I can now customise it to my style. That’s why it’s great working for events like fashion week, you have the opportunity to work with amazing artists -

We started with a light, almost transparent base; where you would cover the little blemishes but leave the skin coming through, think of a tinted moisturiser-like cover.
Thin layer of powder just on the T zone.
On the eyes we used a goldy brown, slightly shimmery stick on the socket and a pale highlighter on the eyelid, both very soft. The colour on the crease applied with the brush, started from the side of the nose to give the eyes definition, and the highlighter on the lids to add luminosity.
Inside the rim of the eyes we applied Revlon Luxurious Colour Khol Eyeliner in white, only from half way through till the end. The same eyeliner was used to enhance the inside corner of the eyes, by drawing a horizontal V along the eye shape itself and then blending it with a brush.
The mascara was the gorgeous Doubletwist, the latest from Revlon, applied endlessly. Layers and layers of mascara to make the lashes spidery and thick.
Under the cheekbones a hint of the same brown colour that we used on the eyes for a little definition and on the lips Nude Attitude a very nice beigy-pink soft textured lipstick by Revlon.



Wednesday, 9 September 2009

A BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 3














More pictures from my archive, just to keep you warm before the new season's shows.
These ones are from the Atelier 1 show AW08-09, I was the key MUA

The collection was beautiful, earthy colours like olive green, brown, and grey were predominant with a touch of shiny silver from time to time, sparkling like a lake in the middle of a forest.
At the make up test the designer was looking for something bright, like a splash of colour. Originally I thought about some vivid colours on the eyes but then we decided that it didn't matter where it was placed, it had to be there somewhere, like a colorful fashion accessory.

A clean delicate and beautiful base was a must, to enhance the colours
I was going to put afterward. I have used Perfect Canvas, a very nice smooth liquid base with a hint of luminosity, Hide It concealer and Invisible Blotting Powder, all by Daniel Sandler Cosmetics

On the eye sockets and at the bottom of the eyelids a soft stroke of Taupe (blusher) by MAC . Taupe again under the cheeckbones for a bit of definition.
Eyebrows filled in only the necessary, and fake lashes (medium, not thick ones).

On the lips just a touch of concealer applied with fingertips (tons of lipbalm required to prevent them from looking dry).

Then we applied the bright colours:for the eyes (green and blue) we used a selection of eyeshadows from different brands, while for cheeks and lips (pink, orange, yellow and lilac) we used water based colours, the ones you use for facepainting ( GRIMAS are my favorite.

To add some "catching the light" effect we applied at the very end some vaseline on eyelids and cheeckbones, et voila'! the look is done.

It was a great experience, being in charge was a big responsability but also very rewarding. I couldn't have done it without the help of my marvellous "affectionados" from the Daniel Sandler team: Kathrine O'Neill, Heather White and Trevor Killean(http://www.danielsandler.com/team)















Monday, 31 August 2009

BLAST FROM THE PAST PART 2

Working with Daniel Sandler has thought me a lot.
Not only he's a very talented make up artist, Daniel is also a beautiful genuine person and a very special friend.

To follow some of the shows I did with Daniel, first assistant on his team.

GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH AW08





GEORGINA HARLEY SMITH SS08









Sunday, 9 August 2009

A BLAST FROM THE PAST!

While tidying up my laptop I found pictures that brought me back to nice old memories and though about uploading them and share them, they can be useful for ideas or reference.


This is one of the first “proper” show that I did with Daniel Sandler, in London, for Pucci.
I remember being very nervous…but everything went smooth, Daniel was soo lovely.





These ones are from the Belle and Bunty show during London Fashion Week S/S06, with Daniel Sandler, sponsored by Bourjois cosmetics and Shavata








September 2006 - Milan- my first show in my own country. I was first assistant in Daniel Sandler's team for the Jenny Pachkam show.



Thursday, 23 July 2009

MISSONI MENS SHOW S/S 2010

The Missoni collection for next year's spring summer is chic and comfortable.
The Missoni man is a traveller, sexy and effortless.
Miriam Lancellotti (head make up for the show)decided to recreate the tanned look by using Mineralize Skin finish powder by Mac. In that way we achieved a "tanned-from-travelling" look i.e. even but not too embellished, a bit rough if anything. The result was great, the boyz looked healthy without showing they were wearing make up.